Here we are again, continuing to discover Romania, and this time, I will take you to the country's most famous historical region, Transylvania, and its most important city, Cluj-Napoca. And, I should add, probably the most praised Romanian city. Because every single person who has visited it has remained very impressed. Yes, even more than Bucharest! But why is that? I must admit, this was not my first time in Cluj, but it was the first time that I actually had the time to visit the city more thoroughly. Therefore, the previous times did not leave me with much of an impression, neither good nor bad.
First and foremost, we must specify that Transylvania is known by everyone (Romanians and foreigners), as "another Romania", compared to the southern part of the country. Not only because the influences of the Austro-Hungarian Empire are still felt from the architectural, urbanistic and linguistic points of view. But also because of the notably higher level of civilization, lower level of chaos, and very calm people.
The city
The general impression when you arrive in Cluj (after a 10 hour ride from Bucharest, that is if you don't take the plane), is that you find yourself in another historical period, such as the beginning of the 20th century.
Beautiful buildings from centuries past, which have been only reconditionned during the last few years, since Cluj had been elected European Youth Capital 2015. Clean streets, and a level of traffic which is hardly as scary as the one in Bucharest. :)
Two main squares, are reigning on the city: two historical figures and two religious cults. One is Piata Unirii (Unity Square), with St. Michael Roman-Catholic Cathedral and the statue of medieval monarch Mathias Corvinus. The other one, after a 10 minute walk in a straight line, is the Avram Iancu Square, dedicated to one of the most prominent revolutionary personalities of 1848. His monument lies in front of the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, and accross the way from the "Lucian Blaga" Theatre and Opera House, which is another elegant building which doesn't go unnoticed.
The people
Transylvanians are known to be the calmest (and slowest) Romanians, and many jokes have been told on this topic accross the ages. However, I did appreciate their calm nature and their politeness. When you come from Bucharest, it's like a breath of fresh air.
Otherwise, Cluj is a very youthful city, as it is an important university center, the Babes-Bolyai University, and the University of Medicine and Pharmacy are among the most prestigious in Romania. Therefore, Romanian and international students can be seen all over the city.
Last but not least, as I mentionned before, Transylvania used to be a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Consequently, Hungarian and German minorities are very well represented (in Cluj, the most numerous minority is the Hungarian one). You will hear on the streets people speak Romanian, Hungarian, and sometimes even a mix of both.
The food
This is another element that got me impressed. I found the food to be very good and very convenient, and with a broad range of dishes to choose from.
The most famous local dish is 'varza (cabbage) a la Cluj', which consists of minced cabbage on a bed of minced meat. It can be served with sour cream and chilli pepper, upon request. No big deal, come to think of it, but very consistent and delicious. The best place to eat it is the Varzarie, a traditional restaurant in the city center, which, as the name suggests, serves mainly cabbage dishes, but not only.
Another restaurant which I absolutely loved is called Opera, and is located, again, as the name suggests, close to the Opera House. Decorated in a vintage art nouveau style, it is a self service restaurant, with lots of dishes to choose from: my advice is to try the stuffed aubergines (with mushrooms and grated cheese), spinach pancakes, or meatballs soup.
Otherwise, Cluj is also full of cafes and bistros, still keeping the atmosphere of other times, which gives a different flavour to whatever you eat or drink.
In the second part of our journey through Cluj, we will take a look at the places to see. Although, I must admit that I had a bit of an unpleasant surprise, but with good results in the long run. Wonder what that is...?
Last but not least, as I mentionned before, Transylvania used to be a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Consequently, Hungarian and German minorities are very well represented (in Cluj, the most numerous minority is the Hungarian one). You will hear on the streets people speak Romanian, Hungarian, and sometimes even a mix of both.
The food
This is another element that got me impressed. I found the food to be very good and very convenient, and with a broad range of dishes to choose from.
The most famous local dish is 'varza (cabbage) a la Cluj', which consists of minced cabbage on a bed of minced meat. It can be served with sour cream and chilli pepper, upon request. No big deal, come to think of it, but very consistent and delicious. The best place to eat it is the Varzarie, a traditional restaurant in the city center, which, as the name suggests, serves mainly cabbage dishes, but not only.
Another restaurant which I absolutely loved is called Opera, and is located, again, as the name suggests, close to the Opera House. Decorated in a vintage art nouveau style, it is a self service restaurant, with lots of dishes to choose from: my advice is to try the stuffed aubergines (with mushrooms and grated cheese), spinach pancakes, or meatballs soup.
Otherwise, Cluj is also full of cafes and bistros, still keeping the atmosphere of other times, which gives a different flavour to whatever you eat or drink.
In the second part of our journey through Cluj, we will take a look at the places to see. Although, I must admit that I had a bit of an unpleasant surprise, but with good results in the long run. Wonder what that is...?
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