The Romanian Traveler: Cluj-Napoca, Straight to the Heart of Transylvania (Part 2)

                                    

      
       That Cluj-Napoca has an atmosphere of its own, we cannot deny, as we have discovered in Part 1. I have shown you what are the main landmarks and significant places of the city, but I haven't told you what to visit yet, have I? Fortunately, Cluj offers both indoors and outdoors options, so all we need as tourists is the wisdom to organize ourselves efficiently, especially if the weather is not entirely on our side. However, an obstacle that I wasn't expecting at all, was something good for the city, but bad for myself in these three days spent in Cluj this autumn. The fact is that, at the moment, most museums in Cluj are either completely closed, or partially closed for restoration. As I was told by museum staff and local citizens, the Municipality went for a massive revival of the city's cultural heritage using European funds.
      Nevertheless, I tried to make the most of my short city break, and this is my own favourites list.

The Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania

    My top favourite, and also a must-see for those who are into folklore and artisan works. Entire collections of household objects used by generations past for their everyday activities in the coutry side: animal farming, dairy and oil processing, bakery, wood and leather crafting, and so much more. 

                           

   Plus, what will completely catch your attention if you like fabrics and colours, is the very rich collection of popular costumes from all parts of Transylvania. Also, in order to reflect the multiculturalism of the region, you can find artworks on wood, clay, ceramic and textiles clearly indicated as Romanian, Hungarian or German. Have fun comparing and contrasting the objects!

                                   

      
      Last but not least, I found this museum the most animated and noisy place, but in a good way. My visit coincided with several visits from school kids accompanied by their teachers. So, yes, I was glad to see that teachers still care for alternative activities and are eager to disseminate culture to the little ones! :)

The "Simion Barnutiu" Central Park

In autumn colours, this place is absolutely magnificent. Although as soon as you enter it and take a few steps, it looks neat but somehow boring with its parallel alleys and cutesy mini-bridges, you have to keep walking in order to see the best bit. 

   At the end of it, there is a small lake where you can go rafting in mini-boats, and where there was once a representation of Swan Lake on ice. Next to the lake, a small but very elegant building is the former casino, where entrance is free, and where various exhibitions and events are taking place.  

                          

The Botanic Garden

                            

In my modest opinion, the Cluj Botanic Garden is nicer than the one in Bucharest. First of all, because it's on a hill, it's cured better, "greener", smells of fresh air and sounds like running water, and I got a stronger overall feeling of closeness with nature. 
                      
                             
   Heck, you even get to meet the occasional squirrell and funny-looking bird! Mind you, I tried to chase a strange bird with blue feathers on its tail and belly, just to take a clear picture! :D 
                              
               
                            

The spots you should not miss are the Japanese garden, situated close to the entrance, the Roman garden on the hilltop, and the small museum, also close to the entrance, where you can find out more about various species of plants, and how they are cultivated and used.

                     

The Tailors' Bastion

                                   

A very pretty medieval fortress-castle, located in the city center, close to the Opera House. At the moment, it is a cultural open space and the entrance is free. My advice is to take the stairs up to the top, and from there the view over Cluj is amazing.

                 

 

Morevover, on the top floor you will find an exhibition of objects belonging to famous personalities, such as writers or politicians of times past.


The Banffy Palace 

                              

Also known as the Art Museum, this one is curretly being restructured, and rightfully so. Originally a very elegant palace, its condition at the moment leaves a lot to be desired, so I am personally very eager to see it back in all its splendour. Nonetheless, it can still be visited, and it is recommended for art lovers, as they would become familiar with the works of Romania's most famous painters: Nicolae Tonitza, Nicolae Grigorescu, Stefan Luchian, Theodor Pallady, and many more.

     As far as the cultural life is concerned, on one hand, Cluj left me wanting more and in a strong need for a sequel. There is so much that I wanted to see, but I could not, such as the Museum of Pharmacy (one of a kind in Romania) and the History Museum. 

                                
  
    Not to mention the fact that Cluj is home to international music festivals Untold and Electric Castle, as well as Transylvania International Film Festival (TIFF). So, I will attend at least one of them in this lifetime - just stay tuned! On the other hand, despite my incomplete visit, I am glad for the city's residents, because I got the feeling that in this city things are being done, and the society evolves. Growth is sudden, but present. 
      A friend of mine kept telling me repeteadly that he would like to move to Cluj. At first, I didn't have much of an opinion, but now I understand. This city has grown a lot in the past few years and it is not over yet. All I can do is congratulate the authorities and the population, and look forward to my next visit! 

The Romanian Traveler: Cluj-Napoca, Straight to the Heart of Transylvania (Part 1)

                                     

      Here we are again, continuing to discover Romania, and this time, I will take you to the country's most famous historical region, Transylvania, and its most important city, Cluj-Napoca. And, I should add, probably the most praised Romanian city. Because every single person who has visited it has remained very impressed. Yes, even more than Bucharest! But why is that? I must admit, this was not my first time in Cluj, but it was the first time that I actually had the time to visit the city more thoroughly. Therefore, the previous times did not leave me with much of an impression, neither good nor bad. 

        First and foremost, we must specify that Transylvania is known by everyone (Romanians and foreigners), as "another Romania", compared to the southern part of the country. Not only because the influences of the Austro-Hungarian Empire are still felt from the architectural, urbanistic and linguistic points of view. But also because of the notably higher level of civilization, lower level of chaos, and very calm people. 

The city

                  

    The general impression when you arrive in Cluj (after a 10 hour ride from Bucharest, that is if you don't take the plane), is that you find yourself in another historical period, such as the beginning of the 20th century. 

                        

                                             

Beautiful buildings from centuries past, which have been only reconditionned during the last few years, since Cluj had been elected European Youth Capital 2015. Clean streets, and a level of traffic which is hardly as scary as the one in Bucharest. :)

                           
  

     Two main squares, are reigning on the city: two historical figures and two religious cults. One is Piata Unirii (Unity Square), with St. Michael Roman-Catholic Cathedral and the statue of medieval monarch Mathias Corvinus. The other one, after a 10 minute walk in a straight line, is the Avram Iancu Square, dedicated to one of the most prominent revolutionary personalities of 1848. His monument lies in front of the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, and accross the way from the "Lucian Blaga" Theatre and Opera House, which is another elegant building which doesn't go unnoticed. 

                                

The people

      Transylvanians are known to be the calmest (and slowest) Romanians, and many jokes have been told on this topic accross the ages. However, I did appreciate their calm nature and their politeness. When you come from Bucharest, it's like a breath of fresh air.

     Otherwise, Cluj is a very youthful city, as it is an important university center, the Babes-Bolyai University, and the University of Medicine and Pharmacy are among the most prestigious in Romania. Therefore, Romanian and international students can be seen all over the city.
    Last but not least, as I mentionned before, Transylvania used to be a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Consequently, Hungarian and German minorities are very well represented (in Cluj, the most numerous minority is the Hungarian one). You will hear on the streets people speak Romanian, Hungarian, and sometimes even a mix of both. 


The food

    This is another element that got me impressed. I found the food to be very good and very convenient, and with a broad range of dishes to choose from. 
    The most famous local dish is 'varza (cabbage) a la Cluj', which consists of minced cabbage on a bed of minced meat. It can be served with sour cream and chilli pepper, upon request. No big deal, come to think of it, but very consistent and delicious. The best place to eat it is the Varzarie, a traditional restaurant in the city center, which, as the name suggests, serves mainly cabbage dishes, but not only.

                                    

     
     Another restaurant which I absolutely loved is called Opera, and is located, again, as the name suggests, close to the Opera House. Decorated in a vintage art nouveau style, it is a self service restaurant, with lots of dishes to choose from: my advice is to try the stuffed aubergines (with mushrooms and grated cheese), spinach pancakes, or meatballs soup. 

                                 

                                
     Otherwise, Cluj is also full of cafes and bistros, still keeping the atmosphere of other times, which gives a different flavour to whatever you eat or drink.

                                 

       In the second part of our journey through Cluj, we will take a look at the places to see. Although, I must admit that I had a bit of an unpleasant surprise, but with good results in the long run. Wonder what that is...?