Romania Is Inviting You to Her 100th Birthday Party. Please Study the Gift List!

           

                               
      Imagine you have a Grandma whom you love to bits, but sometimes she's getting on your nerves, so much that you want to leave home. Because she is doing things that completely lack in logic, and making your life hard, while finding your way around, even in the smallest everyday matters. Those of you who may have had a problematic grandparent surely understand the analogy. And now, guess what? Your precious Granny is turning 100 years old, as the 1st of December marks the Great Unity of 1918, the day when we became one big country. So, you decide to buy her some gifts she could use in order to make her life (and yours) easier. 

      These days are difficult though, and so have been the last two years. Bad governance, tensions, protests, and consequently people getting more and more nervous and unsatisfied about life in Romania. Sometimes we got the feeling that all the political tensions had the (good) side effect of uniting the people, but this feeling is rather short lived, or comes occasionally in hot spurs, and then we go cold-turkey on each other again.

                                    

      What do we want, in order to stop feeling so fed up with everything? What presents could good-old Romania use at the venerable age of 100 years old?

     1. Leaders who (at least) try ruling the country considering people's needs, not only their own advantages and bank accounts. 

     2. More schools and hospitals, and better conditions in the already existing ones, and less churches and cathedrals, because we already have enough of these. And that mammoth cathedral in the center of Bucharest...just don't ask!

     3. And if it really has to be churches, may the Church get more involved in helping those in need. I know that some priests do get involved, but some others just glitter...on the surface. 

      4. Decent salaries and pensions, for everyone to be able to support themselves. It's heartbreaking to see some people beg in the street, whilst some politicians have so much money that they could feed a small town each.

      5. Good roads and infrastructure. Highways. And most of all, people who drive carefully. 

       6. People who respect each other, who use common sense and common courtesy and can lift a hand to help others if necessary. People who are also givers, not just getters.

     7. Care for the environment, be it in the middle of nature or on the cities' streets, as it is already suffering. 

    8. Restructuring roads and buildings. We have jewels of architecture, which unfortunately give the impression that as soon as you touch them with a finger, they are going to crumble.

    9. People who are learners and doers, permanently evolving, without complacency and ignorance, and without expecting exclusively solutions from 'above'.

         10. People who end up in high positions because they deserve it. 'Nuff said!

          11. Obtaining basic administrative documents with ease, and without complicated bureaucratic practices. 'Nuff said part 2!

         12. Last but not least... love. People (with and without power) who love her, each other and life in this country!

          I wanted to make a list of 100 presents, but in the end I kept it simple and realistic. And in my opinion, what I wrote here is not exactly 'the sun, moon and stars', although for us this stuff sometimes feels just as unattainable as pink unicorns. For other countries, they are just normal. Why shouldn't it be like this for us too?

        As for me, I am realistic enough and I have lived abroad long enough to know that no place on this Earth is perfect. Nor do I fancy myself as some amateur political analyst who tries to interpret why some things are happening and predict what is going to happen in the future, engaging in some over-drammatic speculations, and seeing only the negative in all situations. I am just analyzing what is working and what's not, from the simple perspective of everyday life, independently from political orientation. I know that I don't like what is happening now, I know what changes I'd like to see, but I am also aware that it's highly up to ourselves as well. Oh, yeah, and that includes going to vote when elections are on! Don't say that the country is sh*tty, because you are part of it too, and besides, it's the people who create society, be it made of sh*t or creme brulee'! :P
     Nevertehelss, I am happy to be here and to be alive on this day. After all, it is 100 years old. The roundest number ever! And I bet 100% that I won't be around to see the 200th anniversary. So, why not enjoy it and be grateful?! Romania may not be world's most evoluted country, but let's keep in mind that we had it many times worse in the past.
     La multi ani, Romania mea!

      

The Romanian Traveler: Cluj-Napoca, Straight to the Heart of Transylvania (Part 2)

                                    

      
       That Cluj-Napoca has an atmosphere of its own, we cannot deny, as we have discovered in Part 1. I have shown you what are the main landmarks and significant places of the city, but I haven't told you what to visit yet, have I? Fortunately, Cluj offers both indoors and outdoors options, so all we need as tourists is the wisdom to organize ourselves efficiently, especially if the weather is not entirely on our side. However, an obstacle that I wasn't expecting at all, was something good for the city, but bad for myself in these three days spent in Cluj this autumn. The fact is that, at the moment, most museums in Cluj are either completely closed, or partially closed for restoration. As I was told by museum staff and local citizens, the Municipality went for a massive revival of the city's cultural heritage using European funds.
      Nevertheless, I tried to make the most of my short city break, and this is my own favourites list.

The Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania

    My top favourite, and also a must-see for those who are into folklore and artisan works. Entire collections of household objects used by generations past for their everyday activities in the coutry side: animal farming, dairy and oil processing, bakery, wood and leather crafting, and so much more. 

                           

   Plus, what will completely catch your attention if you like fabrics and colours, is the very rich collection of popular costumes from all parts of Transylvania. Also, in order to reflect the multiculturalism of the region, you can find artworks on wood, clay, ceramic and textiles clearly indicated as Romanian, Hungarian or German. Have fun comparing and contrasting the objects!

                                   

      
      Last but not least, I found this museum the most animated and noisy place, but in a good way. My visit coincided with several visits from school kids accompanied by their teachers. So, yes, I was glad to see that teachers still care for alternative activities and are eager to disseminate culture to the little ones! :)

The "Simion Barnutiu" Central Park

In autumn colours, this place is absolutely magnificent. Although as soon as you enter it and take a few steps, it looks neat but somehow boring with its parallel alleys and cutesy mini-bridges, you have to keep walking in order to see the best bit. 

   At the end of it, there is a small lake where you can go rafting in mini-boats, and where there was once a representation of Swan Lake on ice. Next to the lake, a small but very elegant building is the former casino, where entrance is free, and where various exhibitions and events are taking place.  

                          

The Botanic Garden

                            

In my modest opinion, the Cluj Botanic Garden is nicer than the one in Bucharest. First of all, because it's on a hill, it's cured better, "greener", smells of fresh air and sounds like running water, and I got a stronger overall feeling of closeness with nature. 
                      
                             
   Heck, you even get to meet the occasional squirrell and funny-looking bird! Mind you, I tried to chase a strange bird with blue feathers on its tail and belly, just to take a clear picture! :D 
                              
               
                            

The spots you should not miss are the Japanese garden, situated close to the entrance, the Roman garden on the hilltop, and the small museum, also close to the entrance, where you can find out more about various species of plants, and how they are cultivated and used.

                     

The Tailors' Bastion

                                   

A very pretty medieval fortress-castle, located in the city center, close to the Opera House. At the moment, it is a cultural open space and the entrance is free. My advice is to take the stairs up to the top, and from there the view over Cluj is amazing.

                 

 

Morevover, on the top floor you will find an exhibition of objects belonging to famous personalities, such as writers or politicians of times past.


The Banffy Palace 

                              

Also known as the Art Museum, this one is curretly being restructured, and rightfully so. Originally a very elegant palace, its condition at the moment leaves a lot to be desired, so I am personally very eager to see it back in all its splendour. Nonetheless, it can still be visited, and it is recommended for art lovers, as they would become familiar with the works of Romania's most famous painters: Nicolae Tonitza, Nicolae Grigorescu, Stefan Luchian, Theodor Pallady, and many more.

     As far as the cultural life is concerned, on one hand, Cluj left me wanting more and in a strong need for a sequel. There is so much that I wanted to see, but I could not, such as the Museum of Pharmacy (one of a kind in Romania) and the History Museum. 

                                
  
    Not to mention the fact that Cluj is home to international music festivals Untold and Electric Castle, as well as Transylvania International Film Festival (TIFF). So, I will attend at least one of them in this lifetime - just stay tuned! On the other hand, despite my incomplete visit, I am glad for the city's residents, because I got the feeling that in this city things are being done, and the society evolves. Growth is sudden, but present. 
      A friend of mine kept telling me repeteadly that he would like to move to Cluj. At first, I didn't have much of an opinion, but now I understand. This city has grown a lot in the past few years and it is not over yet. All I can do is congratulate the authorities and the population, and look forward to my next visit! 

The Romanian Traveler: Cluj-Napoca, Straight to the Heart of Transylvania (Part 1)

                                     

      Here we are again, continuing to discover Romania, and this time, I will take you to the country's most famous historical region, Transylvania, and its most important city, Cluj-Napoca. And, I should add, probably the most praised Romanian city. Because every single person who has visited it has remained very impressed. Yes, even more than Bucharest! But why is that? I must admit, this was not my first time in Cluj, but it was the first time that I actually had the time to visit the city more thoroughly. Therefore, the previous times did not leave me with much of an impression, neither good nor bad. 

        First and foremost, we must specify that Transylvania is known by everyone (Romanians and foreigners), as "another Romania", compared to the southern part of the country. Not only because the influences of the Austro-Hungarian Empire are still felt from the architectural, urbanistic and linguistic points of view. But also because of the notably higher level of civilization, lower level of chaos, and very calm people. 

The city

                  

    The general impression when you arrive in Cluj (after a 10 hour ride from Bucharest, that is if you don't take the plane), is that you find yourself in another historical period, such as the beginning of the 20th century. 

                        

                                             

Beautiful buildings from centuries past, which have been only reconditionned during the last few years, since Cluj had been elected European Youth Capital 2015. Clean streets, and a level of traffic which is hardly as scary as the one in Bucharest. :)

                           
  

     Two main squares, are reigning on the city: two historical figures and two religious cults. One is Piata Unirii (Unity Square), with St. Michael Roman-Catholic Cathedral and the statue of medieval monarch Mathias Corvinus. The other one, after a 10 minute walk in a straight line, is the Avram Iancu Square, dedicated to one of the most prominent revolutionary personalities of 1848. His monument lies in front of the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, and accross the way from the "Lucian Blaga" Theatre and Opera House, which is another elegant building which doesn't go unnoticed. 

                                

The people

      Transylvanians are known to be the calmest (and slowest) Romanians, and many jokes have been told on this topic accross the ages. However, I did appreciate their calm nature and their politeness. When you come from Bucharest, it's like a breath of fresh air.

     Otherwise, Cluj is a very youthful city, as it is an important university center, the Babes-Bolyai University, and the University of Medicine and Pharmacy are among the most prestigious in Romania. Therefore, Romanian and international students can be seen all over the city.
    Last but not least, as I mentionned before, Transylvania used to be a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Consequently, Hungarian and German minorities are very well represented (in Cluj, the most numerous minority is the Hungarian one). You will hear on the streets people speak Romanian, Hungarian, and sometimes even a mix of both. 


The food

    This is another element that got me impressed. I found the food to be very good and very convenient, and with a broad range of dishes to choose from. 
    The most famous local dish is 'varza (cabbage) a la Cluj', which consists of minced cabbage on a bed of minced meat. It can be served with sour cream and chilli pepper, upon request. No big deal, come to think of it, but very consistent and delicious. The best place to eat it is the Varzarie, a traditional restaurant in the city center, which, as the name suggests, serves mainly cabbage dishes, but not only.

                                    

     
     Another restaurant which I absolutely loved is called Opera, and is located, again, as the name suggests, close to the Opera House. Decorated in a vintage art nouveau style, it is a self service restaurant, with lots of dishes to choose from: my advice is to try the stuffed aubergines (with mushrooms and grated cheese), spinach pancakes, or meatballs soup. 

                                 

                                
     Otherwise, Cluj is also full of cafes and bistros, still keeping the atmosphere of other times, which gives a different flavour to whatever you eat or drink.

                                 

       In the second part of our journey through Cluj, we will take a look at the places to see. Although, I must admit that I had a bit of an unpleasant surprise, but with good results in the long run. Wonder what that is...? 

The Romanian Traveler: Ploiești - Treasure Hunting in an Industrial City

                            

         Let me introduce you to a city that is very special to me. Although, in the Romanian culture and literature, holidays with grandparents are traditionally set in the country-side, and are about gardening, animal farming and evenings by the fireplace, I'm sorry to disappoint, but my holidays with my grandparents took place pretty much... here. :) Ploiești is not a very big city, although it is part of Romania's top 10, as far as the number of residents is concerned. 

                         

     
        You don't need a lot of time to visit Ploiesti: one full day is enough, eventually on the way from Bucharest to Sinaia, for example. It is not really a touristic city, and it is mainly associated  with the petrol and gas industry. Nevertheless, Ploiești offers also a few interesting cultural spots, although, I must say, most of them not promoted enough, or not having even the signs to guide people towards them. Therefore, this is why I call a trip to Ploiesti a treasure hunt, because in order to discover these places you need to either speak to a local or two, either to inform yourself in advance about the places to visit. From childhood to the present day, I had plenty of chances to explore this city, so I will tell you what I love the most.

1. The Palace of Culture

                

One of the city's key landmarks, the Palace of Culture hosts the Natural Science Museum, the city's main library, the Court of Law on the back side, and it is also the venue for various cultural activities and events, for children and adults. It is an elegant building, both inside and outside. It was restructured during the recent years, so the inside part, apart from being very somptuous, it also smells of new, and you'll be impressed by the wooden walls, sculpted ceilings and crystal chandeliers. If you visit it (and you definitely should, at least for the building and its significance), the main part would be about natural sciences, which  is particularly interesting if you are into anatomy, genetics, or environmental sciences. 

    When you are done, you can take a walk in the park in front of it, or if it's winter time, you can enjoy the Christmas decorations, which are simply magic in that park. If it's snowing, the uphill paths leading to the palace's entrance are just perfect if you have a sleigh. ;) 

                           

Also, if you look more carefully, you will find the statue of an elegant gentleman with a hat and a moustache sitting on a bench in the park, surrounded by three ladies and a little boy. Well, my dears,  please don't ignore him: the gentleman in cause is nobody other than Ion Luca Caragiale, Romania's most famous playwright, who was born in a village on the outskirts of Ploiesti, and who is one of the city's key personalities. Also the three ladies with a little boy are the protagonists of one of his most popular and funniest sketches. Later, I will also take you to his home. Just have a little patience, mon cher...

                                

2. The Clock Museum 

    My very own favourite: because of the house where it is hosted (built in Romantic style, at the end of the XIXth century, also with a lovely garden), and also because it is the only museum of this kind in Eastern Europe. The museum was the idea of professor Nicolae Simache (the man behind several other museums in various parts of the country) and was open to the public in 1971. However, the house's history goes back much further than that. It belonged to one of the most important political and administrative figures in Ploiesti's history, magistrate and business man Luca Elefterescu. It was him who organized the first New Year's Eve party in Ploiesti, precisely in that house, celebrating the arrival of  the year ... 1904! :)

                               

You will see the methods used to show time accross history, the way different types of clocks evolved, clocks and pocket watches belonging to various Romanian personalities, such as writers and statesmen, but also collection pieces from other countries. Also, you will be shown a holographic presentation of the history of this beautiful house. The museum is not very big, but you will fall in love with it and the cozy and elegant location.

3. Memorial houses: Ion Luca Caragiale and Nichita Stanescu

Two of the city's VIPs invite you to visit them. We have master Caragiale, whom we encountered earlier in the central park, playwright and satirical writer, and also contemporary poet Nichita Stanescu, one of the most prominent literary figures of the second half of the twentieth century. Although not far from the city center, neither of these houses are on main roads, so they won't be particularly easy to find. Long live Google maps, I should say!

The Caragiale museum is literally hidden between blocks behind the main post office, on a closed street, and you'll probably find it when you'll be on the point of giving up, believing that there is nothing else there. But don't let yourself be fooled! Beyond grey communist blocks, you'll see a pretty white house with an enchanting architecture, a garden and flowers on the terrace. 

However, the place is a museum dedicated to the life and work of the beloved author, rather than a formerly inhabited home. Therefore, you will se more testimonials of Caragiale's work, apart from pictures and statues. Old newspapers with his articles, manuscripts, original editions of his works, as well as school diplomas.

                           

On the other hand, Nichita Stanescu's house is situated in a nicer area with houses and villas, which remained intact to the massive demolishments of the 1980s (in which my grandparents' old house was unfortunately involved as well). And there are also a couple of signs leading to it, as you come closer. It is simpler, from the architectural point of view, but much warmer on the inside. Nichita Stanescu was actually born in that house, and that is where he spent his childhood and adolescence. Therefore, you get the feeling of actually visiting the person that he was. All rooms almost intact, furnished, filled with personal objects, and even an old teddy bear on the bed. 

Don't be surprised if you'll be the only person in the houses, at the time of your visit. With Ploiesti not being very touristic, it is rare to meet fellow travelers there, maximum some local citizen who is into culture or who is showing younger family members the city's treasures. The up-side though is that you will have the curators' undivided attention, and they will explain you any details that you might want to know. Beware of the fact that in order to take pictures inside you will have to pay an extra fee. 


4. The Petrol Museum

Another treasure that is out of the ordinary, but in line with Ploiesti's identity as an industrial city. How much do you know about how the petrol exlpoitation and processing evolved, not only in Ploiesti, but also in the whole of Romania? Another beautiful house, typical of the area, showing, in a small space plus garden, lots of pieces of industry history: maps, photos, devices, refineries, complex machinery, reconstructed laboratories and much more. Last but not least, here I was also allowed to take pictures inside the museum without any fee. 

                  

                                        
                                                ****

 As you can see, even a seemingly not-so-famous city might have something to show, something that you probably didn't know about, and which is simple but nice. What I regret about Ploiesti and its touristic objectives, and what probably applies to other smaller cities as well, is that it doesn't have an infrastructure and territorial marketing strategy meant to attract tourists, even at the most basic level. Yes, it may not be some spectacular city, but it is charming in its simplicity and in its small pieces of beauty, spread here and there. This is why I'm advising you to go accompanied by a local, not for safety reasons, but just to get around and know where to go.  One night there is enough, and the day after you can be off to  Sinaia or Brasov.

                                   In loving memory of my grandparents. 

Because Ploiesti has never been the same without them... <3