Between Tradition and Fashion: Meet the Ie, the Romanian Traditional Shirt

                                  

    Let's talk about fashion. But not in the way that you would expect. Today I will tell you about a side of Romania which had existed far away in time and space, and which during the past few years people have started bringing back into contemporary life. After we had enough of modernity and the western world, we started looking towards the past, towards folklore - national costumes and all sorts traditional artefacts with national motives. 

     

Every year, on the 24th of June, we celebrate the Sanziene, who in Romanian folklore are known to be good fairies, dancing and floating in the air, and blessing the inhabitants of the Earth. Of course, in this part of the year there is an abundancy of folklore events, such as festivals and fairs, which I often attend.

                             

      

    What is more important is that, for the last couple of years, this day has also been decided as the International Day of the Ie, which is the blouse of the Romanian popular costume, available both for men and women, tailoring and patterns being different among the country's regions. On a white or cream fabric, creativity and skill flourish in patterns and colours of embroidery. Therefore, today esentially (but not only) all proud Romanians, ladies and gentlemen, living in Romania or abroad, should wear it. And today, in our hectic and modern Bucharest, many people do. And it looks pretty. It looks like "something else" - a nice Ie in combination with a business-like pencil skirt and high-heels is not something you get to see every day. ;) But we can also combine the ie with other traditional garnments, such as belts (cingători), skirts (fote) or trousers (ițari). Note: the linguistic terms refer strictly to the traditional clothes.

          

        Apart from costumes, creativity is at home in Romania. Be it costumes, coloured wool carpets, painting on wood, ceramic art (which will all have special sections in the future), and handmade toys are being rediscovered these days, in their simple beauty, from a world that many young people may not even have known in first person. They are not cheap to buy - but rightfully so, if we think about all the skills and craftwork that go into making them. Besides, they give a pleasant feeling: a feeling of belonging. And it is great! 

       

            

I'm Asking You Out: 7 Must-See Outdoor Places in Bucharest (Part 1)

    Summer has just arrived, and still the big heat seems not to have arrived, and also the seaside season is not yet at its peak. The weather is really nice and it is a pity to stay inside. Now I assume you are in Bucharest, and you are planning to spend a few days here, before you head off to the seaside resorts of Mamaia, Neptun, Vama Veche or whichever of them, according to your own taste and budget. Meanwhile, you can't miss one or two open-air strolls while you're in Bucharest. I will give you a fair share of tips, to take your pick. But anyway, keep in mind that Bucharest is quite full of parks, large and small. This is why I selected a few, either the most famous or the most interesting. 

1. Cișmigiu Park

                              

The city's oldest park, Park Cișmigiu is situated in the very center of Bucharest, at a 10 minutes walk from Universitate metro station. Its innauguration took place about halfway through the XIXth century, and it keeps a very strong flavour of times past, visible in its flower arrangements, kiosks, gazebos, benches, alleys and statues.  

                

     On the lake in the middle of it, you can go boat rafting in summer and skating in winter. The park has a lot of older and newer legends associated with it, and it is said to have been one of the favourite places for inspiration of poet Mihai Eminescu. 

                          

                                

     Nowadays, the Cișmigiu also hosts lots of cultural events, such as the Europe Day in May, the Folklore Festival in June, book fairs, and during the past years, also the theatre festival dedicated to playwright Ion Luca Caragiale. If you are hungry, there is a nice restaurant overlooking the lake in the very center (they make great roast duck on cabbage :P ), plus various open air cafes and kiosks serving drinks, ice cream and snacks. 

2. Bucharest Botanic Garden

           

You will find it accross the way from Cotroceni Palace (the President's residence). It may not be as glamorous as other botanic gardens in Europe, but it is one of those spots where tranquillity is at home, as it doesn't have the human traffic and commercial activities of the major parks. 

                              

It is the perfect place to find shadow and oxygen in the middle of summer, and stay and enjoy the colours of the flowers and the calming green of the trees. The entrance costs only 7 lei (less than 1.50 euro), and the spots not to be missed are the flowers alley, starting right at the entrance, the rose garden and the greenhouse. 

3. Carol I Park

                                  

I would say this is the 'monumental' one, standing since the beginning of the XXth century, and marking the celebration of 40 years of reign of King Carol I. It is characterized by the wide and somehow imposing esplanade, but especially the Mausoleum where several historic personalities have been buried, and the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, dedicated to the soldiers who lost their lives in the 1st World War. If you spend more time around, you may even see the change of guards in front of the monument. 

                          

What is also interesting about this park is that even in its surroundings you will find cool spots. For example, on one side you will find a very beautiful castle, also known as the Țepeș Castle, which now belongs to the Army, and, unfortunately I would say, can only be visited a couple of times a year, namely Heroes Day, Army Day and the Night of the Museums. Which is a pity, for such beauty of a castle, and I honestly hope that things will change.

                             

                            

On the other side of the park, you will find Xenofon Street, the only stairway street in Bucharest. This street has been painted a few times with various artistic motifs, and now it's like a waterfall flowing through the woods. The paint is a bit deteriorated now, so we're waiting for some refreshing and some new ideas. ;)

4. The Old Court Museum (Curtea Veche)

                       

An open air museum, for those who are into ruins... ehm, I mean archeology. It is the site of the fortified town from the reign of Vlad the Impaler, who is still there to greet you. ;) The site also has a very nice church by its side. The museum is currently closed for restoration, but you can be sure that I will keep you updated as soon as it opens. 

                                   

         I will be back in the next weeks with Part 2, where I saved the best for last, at least in my opinion. I will let you guess what places we are talking about... ;)

     

Romanian Holiday Spirit: what You Should Expect if You Spend Easter in Romania

                                 

  Easter is coming. Although judging by looking out of the window and contemplating the (still) snowy landscape , we would rather think that Easter and Christmas have swapped places this year. But, it's the truth: on the 8th of April, we are celebrating Easter. Please note that, although Romanians  celebrate Christmas on the 25th of December, we celebrate Easter on the old Orthodox calendar, which in some years coincides with the non-Orthodox world, but most often it doesn't. 

         So, we have less than two weeks to go, and I'm inviting you to spend Easter in Romania. What is happening exactly?

The Church Service

Compared to Christmas, Easter has a higher degree of religious solemnity about it. Because the most important moment is the Resurrection sermon, held at night between Saturday and Sunday. So, we go to church at night, and the service is held outside the church, in the open air. At midnight, when it is said that Christ has resurrected, the priest spreads the holy light (which arrives every year from Israel), by lighting the candles of some participants at the ceremony, which, in turn, light each other's candles. After the service is over, we are all heading home with the lit candles, and we have to make sure they stay lit until we get home.

                                   

Now, you know me: I'm not the most religious person you'll meet in your life, but this is one of the few occasions when I want to go to church. Because it gives a special feeling, which one can understand just by being there. Plus, it is also a socializing event: it's impossible not to bump into relatives, neighbours, aquaintances, and even start talking to new people. 

The Food

So, after we get back home at night, what do we do? Of course, you guessed: eat! And yes, also at night, not just on the Easter Sunday lunch time. 

What is indispensable from the Easter feast?

- coloured eggs: 

There is special egg paint, in which eggs must be boiled so that the egg shell changes colour. They should be mainly red (symoblizing the blood of Christ), but you can make as many colours as you like. Plus, in some parts of the country, or the country side, or people who have more patience and skill also make drawings on the egg shell.

- lamb dishes:

Lamb soup, roast lamb, drob (minced meat pudding, made with lamb organs), stufat (lamb stew made with spring onios and spring garlic). Not everyone likes lamb, and not everyone wants to eat lamb for emotional reasons, but I can't think of any traditional Easter dishes without lamb. 

- pasca:

Typical Easter dessert, a sweet cheese pie made with cream cheese, raisins and vanilla flavour.

The People

Easter, just like Christmas, is spent with family and close friends, visiting each other at Sunday lunch. People greet each other with the phrase 'Christos a înviat!' (Christ has resurrected) and the other person has to reply 'Adevărat a înviat!' (Truly He has resurrected). It is not a very 'music and party' atmosphere, but just an occasion to be together. 

So, in the end, what we hope now is that the weather will be on our side, at least a little. Because otherwise we'll find Santa Claus, and a pot of sarmale instead! Anyway, I will wish you Paște Fericit, because I like to believe that this is what is happening after all! ;)

If Romania Asked for Birthday Presents, what Would They Be?

       

    Imagine you have a Grandma who you love to bits, but sometimes she's getting on your nerves, so much that you want to leave home. Because she is doing things that completely lack in logic, and making your life hard, while finding your way around, even in the smallest everyday matters. Those of you who may have had a problematic grandparent surely understand the analogy. And now, guess what? Your precious Granny is turning 99 years old. One year from now,  she will be 100. You know she's not going anywhere because she is immortal. So, you decide to buy her some gifts she could use in order to make her life (and yours) easier.

      Yes, Romania is 99 today, as the 1st of December marks the Great Unity of 1918, the day when we became one big country. 

      These days are difficult though, and so has been the entire year. Bad governance, tensions, protests, and consequently people getting more and more nervous and unsatisfied about life in Romania. Sometimes we got the feeling that all the political tensions had the (good) side effect of uniting the people, but this feeling was rather short lived, or comes occasionally in hot spurs, and then we go cold-turkey on each other again.

                                    

      What do we want, in order to stop feeling so fed up with everything? What presents could good-old Romania use before she turns 100?

     1. Leaders who (at least) try ruling the country considering people's needs, not only their own advantages and bank accounts. 

     2. More schools and hospitals, and better conditions in the already existing ones, and less churches and cathedrals, because we already have enough of these.

     3. And if it really has to be churches, may the Church get more involved in helping those in need. I know that some priests do get involved, but some others just glitter...on the surface. 

      4. Decent salaries and pensions, for everyone to be able to support themselves. It's heartbreaking to see some people beg in the street, whilst some politicians have so much money that they could feed a small town each.

      5. Good roads and infrastructure. Highways. And most of all, people who drive carefully. 

       6. People who respect each other, who use common sense and common courtesy and can lift a hand to help others if necessary. People who are also givers, not just getters.

     7. Care for the environment, be it in the middle of nature or on the cities' streets, as it is already suffering. 

    8. Restructuring roads and buildings. We have jewels of architecture, which unfortunately give the impression that as soon as you touch them with a finger, they are going to crumble.

    9. People who are learners and doers, permanently evolving, without complacency and ignorance, and without expecting exclusively solutions from 'above'.

         10. People who end up in high positions because they deserve it. 'Nuff said!

          11. Obtaining basic administrative documents with ease, and without complicated bureaucratic practices. 'Nuff said part 2!

         12. Last but not least... love. People (with and without power) who love her, each other and life in this country!

          I wanted to make a list of 100 presents, but in the end I kept it simple and realistic. And in my opinion, what I wrote here is not exactly 'the sun, moon and stars', although for us this stuff sometimes feels just as unattainable as pink unicorns. For other countries, they are just normal. Why shouldn't it be like this for us too?

        I will update you again this time next year. But in the meantime, I will make also another commitment to you. Next year will be our Romanian year. And my commitment is that until the 1st of December next year I will give you 100 reasons to love Romania. 
          Are we celebrating or protesting? Both. Personally, I'll be working tomorrow, so I'm not attending anything. But in my heart, it's both. People I know will be demonstrating in town, and I salute them. 
          Happy Birthday, crazy old bat! And now go party hard, before your sarmale get cold! :P

      

All Roads Lead to Rome... but Hurry Up!

       

           

              

    Exactly one week ago I set foot in the Eternal City, for the first time after 18 years. Yes, it's a lot of time, and it is something different to look at everything through the eyes of an adult, as opposed to the eyes of a teenager. However, it is mandatory to mention that I was there on business, so I didn't have much time to be a tourist, and feel the vibe and personality of each place, as I normally like.  And Rome has a lot to offer, from all points of view. My tourist activity this time was fast (but not furious :P), and unfortunately, rather superficial. Therefore, I will give you 15 pills about Rome, as basic departure points. 

                                 

1. Rome is really the Eternal City. Nowhere do you feel as connected to such a distant past, as you feel when you are around the Roman Forum, Traian's Column, or the Colosseum. In fact, the historical city of Rome is part of the UNESCO World Heritage.

                           

2. Rome is a meeting point for everything that means history, art and architecture. And you see this wherever you look. 

3. The city is very chaotic and very populated. It will not let you sleepwalk and relax while you visit, so you will feel the need to be in continuous movement yourself. 

4. Distances between one place and another are pretty long, even within the city center, and quite often the quality of the roads leave a lot to be desired. So, it's best to move around in metro.

5. If time is not on your side, try moving around in a hop on/ hop off tourist bus. You will get an overview of Rome's attractions.

6. Rome is mostly associated with scooters as a means of transportation. Think Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in 'Roman Holiday'

                            

7. You will see lots of funny trees on the roads around the city, and you may not have seen them anywhere in the world. Well, my dears, they are called domestic pines.

                              

8. Few monuments are as somptuous as the Altare Della Patria, of Piazza Venezia, built in honour of King Vittorio Emanuele II.

                             

9. The shores of river Tevere, with the view on St. Peter's Basilica or Castel St. Angelo, in autumn colours and under the rain, have something undeniably picturesque.

10. For Vatican visits you need an entire day, but it's absolutely worth it, whether you are religious or not. In fact, this small state within a state constitutes another UNESCO World Heritage associated with the Italian capital. This time, for me it was out of the question to make it, but I would still love to admire Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel and have a word with St. Peter one more time. ;)

11. Rome is also the home of Italian cinema, testified by the Cinecitta' studios. One of my other regrets is not having yet visited them, not even as a kid.

12. Romans are loud and chatty, but also very friendly. Plus, for some mysterious reason, in Rome selfies don't come out as nice as photos being taken by someone else. Which means that Rome must be enjoyed in company. So, travel with a friend or talk to the people around, and have your photo taken. 

13. The Trevi Fountain smells fresh and the water is clean. Don't forget to throw a coin in the water, in order to make sure you return to Rome, as the legend says.

                             

14. One local dish that you must absolutely try is pasta cacio e pepe, which literally means cheese and pepper. Soothing and a little spicy at the same time. Actually, I tried a little variation: cacio e pepe lasagna with artichokes. :D

                              

15. Last but not least, now that you just ate, there is a way to get rid of the extra calories without going to the gym. Climb the stairs of Piazza di Spagna! You'll be almost dead afterwards but it works. :P

                          

    In conclusion, to visit Rome in depth, seeing everything that needs to be seen and without feeling like you're running a marathon, you would probably need 4-5 days. Therefore, this fast and brief visit obligated me to a sequel. But I promise that this sequel will be slow, and I will tell you much more about the Eternal City. Until then, as an old song said... arrivederci Roma!

Helsinki: the City where You Recharge Your Batteries (Part 3)

                               

          

      I told you I would have saved the best for last. And in this last part dedicated to Helsinki, we are focusing on those spots that you definitely shouldn't miss. Because each of them contains a little bit of Finnish soul, embraced in various forms.

1. The National Museum of Finland - where art and history meet

     Situated on Mannerheimintie, where we found ourselves for the first time in the previous 'episode', this was my own favourite (actually, disputing the first spot with another place). First of all, the building itself is remarkable - for lovers of classic architecture, it is like a cosy castle, both outside and inside. Towers, painted ceiling, windows in stained glass, plus the karhu.... I mean, the bear who greets you at the doorway makes things even cuter. 

                                 

    Secondly, the objects on display are really numerous, and you really get a sense that you are being taken through the history of Finland in all details, from the Middle Ages to contemporary days. Weapons, Lutheran religious art, artworks of all kinds, musical instruments, costumes, furniture, images of monarchs of times past, and so much more. And guess what: unlike in Romanian museums, you are allowed to take pictures without extra taxes being perceived. 

                             

                          
      As a temporary exhibition on the ground floor, I had the chance to find a photography exhibition illustrating the contemporary history of Finland, from its war of independence from the Russian Empire to the present day, with all the social movements and issues that the country has faced.

2. Kiasma, the Contemporary Art Museum - the modern and the quirky.

                                   

History comes face-to-face with modernity, in every sense. Just accross the way from the National Museum of Finland,  we find Kiasma, the Contemporary Art Museum. An ultra-modern glass building, hosting literally the craziest works of art that I've ever seen. After my visit there, I found myself in awe in front of the levels of immagination that the human mind can reach. 

At the souvenir shop on the ground floor, I became aquainted with the Muumi cartoon characters, which represent the theme of lots of souvenirs: calendars, mugs, notebooks, or wall pictures. They can be found everywhere, are not very new or modern (on the contrary, I'd say 'refreshingly old-fashioned'), but nevertheless very cute. 

                                 

3. Suomenlinna - history in tune with nature.

                               

     From the old port, you can take the boat and head to Suomenlinna, an inhabited fortress expanding on various islands, and which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage. Its history starts in the 18th Century, and its role was to protect against Russian invasion. Afterwards, the fortess has been passed between Sweden and Finland. 

                              

Now it is like an open-air medieval museum, with walls, tunnels,  gates, cannons and monuments. And on top of all that, nice and small wooden houses can be found from place to place, and yes, despite of the 'middle of nowhere, just you and nature' feeling, it is inhabited. 

                           

4. Gallen-Kallela Museum - a hidden gem of genius

                               

   Now, this is the place disputing the top spot with the National Museum of Finland. As you might already know, my favourite places to visit as a tourists are castles and memorial houses, because I believe they have the biggest degree of warmth and personality. Plus, if you think about the fact that people of value, who made a difference in history and culture, have been present in the same rooms, the energy you get from that is priceless. 
       On my last day in Helsinki, I arrived at the Gallen-Kallela Museum, which is actually outside the city, in Tarvaspää, close to the city of Espoo. You can get there by taking a bus from the Kamppi shopping center, and you have to buy a ticket from the driver. You cannot use the Helsinki public transport pass, as you go outside the city. Plus, as you get off, I have to warn you that you will have quite a long bit to walk, the castle is somewhere in the wood, and the signs leave quite a lot to be desired. Be armed with patience, have a map or even a GPS, and be ready to ask passers-by (you won't see so many of those either, so it's better if you go there accompanied).
      But once you get there I promise it is worth it. The museum is actually the house and studio of Finnish painter and sculptor Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865 - 1931), and is a small castle projected by the artist himself. 

                         

    I admit I wasn't aquainted with him and his works beforehand, but he is a key figure in Finnish art and history, and the museum provides exactly a full picture of his biography and works. It is a cosy and quiet spot in the middle of nature. And after the visit of the museum, I advise you to go for lunch at the cafe' nearby, which is a very pretty house inside and outside.

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And this was my Finnish adventure. I saw and learned quite a lot, on a relatively short visit, about a country which is not really 'in the spotlight' as a travel destination. However, it is absolutely worth it, from every point of view. Finland is art,  design, architecture, history, artisan work, nature, and last but not least, food. I am sure I will be back someday. Kiitos, Suomi! :)