Puglia - the Place where You'll Want to Remain Forever

 
     

   I admit I had never had as many chances to explore southern Italy as I would have liked. However, guess what: all is not lost, and it's better later than never (if you like cliches)! :P Therefore, moving from summer into autumn, I had my latest trip, and probably the last for the next couple of months. So, I headed off to Bari, the capital city of the region of Puglia, the heel of the Italian Boot. 

       

      The weather in the South is still very warm in September, so we enjoyed true summer, apart from the last 2 (rainy) days. I am telling you that from the moment I arrived I felt that the sun in Bari is shining in a different way, and the sea view is absolutely breath-taking. So much, that you feel you could be left there on the sea shore and relax for hours on end without getting bored. 

             

      Bari is an elegant and clean city, with wide streets and massive buildings, of different architectural styles. And for some reason, it is also pretty difficult to get lost, as the city center is somehow square, and wherever you walk, and no matter how much you go round, you end up in the same places you have seen before. Think about the fact that it was my first time in Bari, I am no master of orientation, and still I didn't get lost. One might argue that you have nothing to see in Bari, but it's not true. I could recommend you the Bari Castle (or Castello Normanno-Svevo), the Cathedral of St. Nicola, or a little stroll around the old city (Bari Vecchia). 
               

         
        However, what you must really know is that you should not limit yourself only to the city of Bari. From the Central Station, you can take several trains to the surrounding areas, for extra natural beauties, beaches or quirky places. Besides, there are 3 or 4 train companies operating from Bari, apart from the national company Trenitalia, and each company covers different destinations. Therefore, you must also pay attention where you want to go, and which train company goes there. There are different ticket offices and different stations, so be very careful. Prices vary according to distance, but in general it doesn't cost more than 5 euro a one way ticket.
         The first place I am advising you to visit is Polignano a Mare, if you want to go to the beach, and to enjoy a view which is even more impressive than the Bari sea shore. It basically gives you the feeling that infinity lies in front of you, and your thoughts and dreams become unlimited. I kid you not! :) 

      The beach is made of stones and cliffs, which means paradise for cliff divers, but also makes it quite uncomfortable for swimmers and sunbathers, if you don't have plastic slippers, as the chance to hurt your feet increases. I didn't have them. Nuff said! :) For a sandy beach, I was recommended Monopoli, but I didn't have time to get there too, so maybe next time I will be luckier. The water is clean and deep, and swimming around cliffs and under rocky tunnels is a special sensation. However, be careful here as well, because the sea gets deep at a rather short distance after entering, and soon you will stop touching bottom. Do not venture too far, do not swim too fast, and always make sure that your friends are around in case of an emergency. Last but not least, I am challenging you to find a famous friend in Polignano. He is a famous Italian singer and songwriter, who was originary from this town, and who made history with a song that the whole world knows. Guess who he is, find him and take a picture! :)

                 

        Another place which you should not miss is... yep, you guessed, Alberobello, a small town in the province of Bari. Alberobello is part of the UNESCO World Heritage thanks to its little houses called 'trulli', and which are a typical feature of the area. You will see entire streets made of these little houses, which might as well pass for the house of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs in multiple copies. However, these houses can be homes, shops, restaurants and cafes and even hotels. Time for a relaxing stroll, buying souvenirs, typical foods and drinks, and getting impressed in front of so much cuteness! Speaking of souvenirs, let me tell you that most souvenirs you can buy are handmade, and apart from small miniature and magnet trulli, you will also see objects which have to do with traditional superstitions and rituals, such as the 'tree of life', bright and colourful, which apparently was given as a present by the young man of times past to his beloved, in order to bring fertility. Hmmm... Pugliese romanticism! :D

                

            Money-wise, the region of Puglia is a convenient place to visit. Food is cheap and delicious, although it is mainly based on bread and pasta - focaccia (bread with various toppings, mainly vegetables and cheese), panzerotto (like a breaded wallet stuffed with mozzarella and tomatoes), orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta, usually eaten with meat ragu' and parmesan cheese), tarallucci (small pretzels with different flavours, such as olives, herbs or chilly pepper). And if you visit Polignano, I recommend you to eat at the Pescaria, a restaurant specialized in fish dishes, including raw fish tartar. You will stay in the queue for quite a long while, but I promise it will be worth it. Also, in Alberobello you will find various types of sweet liquors, in flavours such as pistacchio and fico d'India (nothing else than cactus fruit).

             

      After my 4 days visit to Puglia (the 5th day was spent somewhere else, but we will talk about it soon), I swear that... it was hardly enough. But at least I saw a bit of everything I wanted to see. And I took lots of nice memories with me. Puglia is the place to be if you want to relax and feel on top of the world!
            
          
       
         
        

Love Thy Neighbour: the Bulgarian Summer Experience. Part 3 - Balchik, the Charming Retreat

           

    The second stopover of our day trip was by far the best one: Balchik, seaside town and resort close to the border with Romania, which has literally been passed over from Romania to Bulgaria a few times throughout history, following various wars. Eventually, it was passed over to Bulgaria in 1940, at the beginning of World War II.

           What makes Balchik special? Surely, it is famous for its association with Queen Maria of Romania, wife of King Ferdinand I, who, back in the 1920s, when Balchik was part of the Romanian territory, has chosen this location as a summer residence. Therefore, the summer residence was built between 1926 and 1937. The guide will tell you the entire story on the spot, as well as some trivia on the royal couple's life. Did you know that, apparently, each of them was secretly in love with someone else? Oh well, it looks like heartache happens also for the blue-blooded! :) 

           At the time of the visit, unfortunately, I was quite unwell after all the heat I endured in Kaliakra, so I may not have been as 'fresh' as I wished. And a trip to Balchik also comes in the package with lots of walking and lots of stairs. Nevertheless, all the flowers and vegetation makes the entire experience more refreshing and relaxing.

           The first stop on the way to the Castle was the botanical garden, with a variety of over 2000 plants species, layers of colour, and, as our guide repeated a gazzillion times, more than 300 species of cactus, as well as a separate rose garden. 

           

      

      On the way to the castle, there are also several small houses similar in architecture, each of them with its own destination. The most famous is the Queen's Winery House, traditionally decorated, where you will be scheduled for a wine tasting session, which happen behind closed doors. As we were moved from the Russian-speaking guide from an English-speaking one, our group was international, consisting of Finnish, Slovak and German tourists. Our host was a girl sommelier of about... 15 years old. That young, and already knowing so much about wine! :) It's true that with those high temperature alcohol might have been the last thing we needed, but you have to taste, a list a sip of a couple of sortments. My favourite was a rosee' sweet wine with a hint of, of course, roses. 

              

           

       Queen Maria's Castle is the main attraction of Balchik, and rightfully so. It is not an imposing castle, but rather a small and pretty vacation home. Beautifully built and decorated, containing some rural elements of the Dobrogea region, but also a Turkish minaret. Inside, it looks clean and cosy, a mix between a country home and a museum. Nevertheless, it is still full of tourists, and you need a lot of time and patience to get around. I would say that Balchik is a place where you must come and relax, patiently, without being rushed by anyone, and with more time on your hands. Last but not least, don't forget to sit on the Queen's throne, right outside the Castle, and admire the sea view.

              

       In the end, what can I say? Will I go back to Bulgaria? Probably, especially because I would like to enjoy Balchik a little more, and eat some more tarator, and refill the supply of rose-based cosmetics. And last but not least, because, of all Eastern European nations, Bulgaria has probably the closest cultural profile to Romania, especially in food and artisanal crafts. Българиа, you rock! :)

            

Love Thy Neighbour: the Bulgarian Summer Experience. Part 2 - Ceramic Factory and Cape Kaliakra

                   

      The day trip we took to Cape Kaliakra and Balchik deserves 2 separate entries, because it was in itself an enchanting experience. Even with the (probably) 40 degrees outside, I still recommend it. 

          First of all, how can you go on these day trips? In Golden Sands, all accross the resort, there are several small tourism agencies organizing various day trips - apart from this one, we had options such as Nesebar, Varna, Albena, Bulgarian country side, or even Istanbul. And we chose Kaliakra and Balchik. It cost us 30 leva for the trip plus other 17 for the entrance to touristic attractions, which would mean roughly 20 euros. 

          The funniest part is that we were told we'd have an English speaking guide, which was true... only partially. Because on the bus, we were the only 'outsiders' in a group of Russian tourists, with Russian speaking guide. Fantastic! That means I also got to practice my listening skills in Russian, and also make very basic conversation with the ladies sitting next to me.  However, when it came to important organizational information, I was not confident enough in what I understood, and I always had to ask twice, or ask for written timetables to be shown to me. But in the end, we did have an English speaking guide once we got to our touristic attractions. 
      Our first stop was at a small ceramic factory on the way. It is a small and pretty house with a garden, which adds an extra joy to the visit. Creating ceramic objects is another traditional craft common to Bulgaria and Romania. We had the chance to watch how colour is prepared, how objects are molded by hand, and later painted. And of course, stroll around the shop, admiring everything that could be done with painted ceramics, in an explosion of colours, shapes and motifs. 

            

       
      Next, we headed towards Cape Kaliakra, and up till that point I was not yet aware of what I am about to advise you now. Please beware of the fact that you will travel around midday and early afternoon, when the sun is at its strongest. Wear light and comfortable clothes, as well as comfortable shoes, because you will walk a lot, and go up and down hills and stairs. A hat, lots of water and sun protecting cream will also help. There is not much vegetation on Cape Kaliakra, or trees to keep shadow. Only the breeze can refresh a bit, but not as much as you would need.    

              

                  

     Cape Kaliakra is like a narrow peninsula and natural reservation, but also military base, situated in the north of the Bulgarian Black Sea coast. It is distinguished by vertical cliffs, raising about 70 meters above the sea, remains of the ancient fortress with its museum, and, last but not least, a magnificent view, which apparently it is also a famous spot for observing dolphins, but we were not lucky enough.        

               

             In spite of everything, the landscape is worth all the frying under the sun, as it really gives you the feeling of being on top of the world. And also gives you a complusive need to jump directly into the sea from that height, and refresh yourself once and for all! :D 
              Also, be prepared to hear lots of mysteries and legend linked to the place. What is the meaning of the statue greeting you at the entrance? What happened there during the Russian-Turkish war in the 18th century? What is the legend of the 40 maidens? I will let you find out!

         

     

          The third ans last portion of my Bulgarian trip will be about Balchick - a territory moved back and forth from Bulgaria to Romania, and which is the ideal place to relax. Stay tuned! 

                  

                

Love Thy Neighbour: the Bulgarian Summer Experience. Part 1 - Golden Sands

       

     

Summer has arrived, and, after a lifetime of faithfully honouring the Romanian seaside, this year it was time for something different. And, knowing that many Romanians are often choosing the Bulgarian coast of the Black Sea, for better prices and services... why not? Let's see what our neigbours are up to.

       First of all, we must mention that the price has been more convenient indeed. Otherwise, the seaside experience is pretty much similar to the Romanian one, in terms of locations, people, beaches and landscapes. However, my advice, especially if you're Romanian (but also if you're not), is to look at it as more of a cultural experience, rather than your typical seaside holiday. Here is why...

                    

       Amusingly, from the political point of view, Romania and Bulgaria seem to come together in a package. After all, we did join the EU on the same day, and now we're waiting together for being accepted into the Schengen area. Nevertheless, I discovered that Romania and Bulgaria share quite a lot of cultural similarities, which are visible even from the moment you cross the Danube into the Bulgarian territory, in the city of Ruse, and later in Varna. Same architectural styles, from the so-called 'communist apartment blocks', to the elegant houses from the early 20th century, which remained unaffected by urbanistic transformations. 

             Afterwards, the first thing that will strike you is the language, the least similar feature between the two countries. Bulgarian is a Slavic language, using Cyrillic alphabet, so be prepared for that.  If you have at least some knowledge of Russian, that would come in handy - at least you will be able to read cyrillics with ease, but beware that there are a couple of letters which should be read differently, and also several words and phrases which are not the same in the two languages. The best thing you can do is buy a small Bulgarian conversation guide, in order to get by. Not everyone speaks English, especially some of the people you will interact with as a tourist: hotel staff, waiters, shop assistants, taxi drivers, etc. 

     Golden Sands is quite a fancy resort. From small and pretty hotels, to luxury ones, you can certainly find accommodation for all tastes and budgets. If you want a populated location and a vibrant night life, with many shops, bars, clubs and restaurants, then surely the central area of the resort is for you. Money-wise, the Bulgarian currency is the Lev, and you would be better off withdrawing cash from the cash machine (although there are not so many in the resort), rather than exchanging at an exchange office. 

   

          If, however, you need a more quiet holiday, and sleep at night listening to the waves, then I suggest to move towards the Chaika area. However, as far as the beaches are concerned, I haven't seen much difference from the Romanian ones, both from good and bad points of view. An abundace of seaweed, although the central part of the resort is clean, beaches full of armchairs which you have to pay for, and in some places quite a rocky sea bottom. But if you are very keen on swimming, a good idea is also to choose a hotel with a swimming pool. I did, and I was very glad! Be careful that the weather is hotter than in Romania, therefore at around 8-9 a.m. it's already hot enough to go to the beach, and to throw yourself into the water at the speed of light to refresh yourself, just like around 11-12, the sun is already too hot to handle.

              

 Bulgarian food is simple, healthy and delicious. Various types of salads, of which the most popular are shopska salad, made just of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and grated cheese on top, and also shepherd's salad, which, apart from the above, you also add boiled egg, diced ham and mushrooms. Or, for the heat outside, nothing is better than tarator: a traditional soup made with cucumbers, yoghurt, dill and olive oil, served cold. Otherwise, as an apetizer, you can try lyutenitsa, the Bulgarian brother-from-another-mother of Romanian zacusca, which is a vegetable spreadable paste made with eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and carrots. 

Most dishes are based on vegetables, yoghurt, grilled meat, fish and seafood. So, yes, I ate very well without gaining weight. Yeeey! Last but not least, I was often asked if I booked the hotel with 3 meals a day all-inclusive. The answer is no, mainly because... what if you don't like the hotel restaurant? Or what if you would like to eat in a different place every day? Consider that too before booking your hotel.
                            

             And, for the last part of this first chapter, I left my favourite aspect of Bulgarian culture. Well, my dears, in Bulgaria everything is coming up roses... literally. For years and years and years, Bulgaria has been famous for cultivating numerous types of roses, which are used for various purposes. Of course, the most easy to find are the cosmetics based on roses (mostly for ladies, but also for gentlemen) - perfumes, essential oils, skincare and haircare products, soaps, bath salt, and so much more. Last but not least, roses are also used for sweets, in honey, confiture, and different types of sweets. Very sweet, so you need only a little at once, but a very particular taste. 
               In Part 2 we will talk about a very special place to visit on the Bulgarian coast. What will it be?