Helsinki: the City where You Recharge Your Batteries (Part 3)

                               

          

      I told you I would have saved the best for last. And in this last part dedicated to Helsinki, we are focusing on those spots that you definitely shouldn't miss. Because each of them contains a little bit of Finnish soul, embraced in various forms.

1. The National Museum of Finland - where art and history meet

     Situated on Mannerheimintie, where we found ourselves for the first time in the previous 'episode', this was my own favourite (actually, disputing the first spot with another place). First of all, the building itself is remarkable - for lovers of classic architecture, it is like a cosy castle, both outside and inside. Towers, painted ceiling, windows in stained glass, plus the karhu.... I mean, the bear who greets you at the doorway makes things even cuter. 

                                 

    Secondly, the objects on display are really numerous, and you really get a sense that you are being taken through the history of Finland in all details, from the Middle Ages to contemporary days. Weapons, Lutheran religious art, artworks of all kinds, musical instruments, costumes, furniture, images of monarchs of times past, and so much more. And guess what: unlike in Romanian museums, you are allowed to take pictures without extra taxes being perceived. 

                             

                          
      As a temporary exhibition on the ground floor, I had the chance to find a photography exhibition illustrating the contemporary history of Finland, from its war of independence from the Russian Empire to the present day, with all the social movements and issues that the country has faced.

2. Kiasma, the Contemporary Art Museum - the modern and the quirky.

                                   

History comes face-to-face with modernity, in every sense. Just accross the way from the National Museum of Finland,  we find Kiasma, the Contemporary Art Museum. An ultra-modern glass building, hosting literally the craziest works of art that I've ever seen. After my visit there, I found myself in awe in front of the levels of immagination that the human mind can reach. 

At the souvenir shop on the ground floor, I became aquainted with the Muumi cartoon characters, which represent the theme of lots of souvenirs: calendars, mugs, notebooks, or wall pictures. They can be found everywhere, are not very new or modern (on the contrary, I'd say 'refreshingly old-fashioned'), but nevertheless very cute. 

                                 

3. Suomenlinna - history in tune with nature.

                               

     From the old port, you can take the boat and head to Suomenlinna, an inhabited fortress expanding on various islands, and which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage. Its history starts in the 18th Century, and its role was to protect against Russian invasion. Afterwards, the fortess has been passed between Sweden and Finland. 

                              

Now it is like an open-air medieval museum, with walls, tunnels,  gates, cannons and monuments. And on top of all that, nice and small wooden houses can be found from place to place, and yes, despite of the 'middle of nowhere, just you and nature' feeling, it is inhabited. 

                           

4. Gallen-Kallela Museum - a hidden gem of genius

                               

   Now, this is the place disputing the top spot with the National Museum of Finland. As you might already know, my favourite places to visit as a tourists are castles and memorial houses, because I believe they have the biggest degree of warmth and personality. Plus, if you think about the fact that people of value, who made a difference in history and culture, have been present in the same rooms, the energy you get from that is priceless. 
       On my last day in Helsinki, I arrived at the Gallen-Kallela Museum, which is actually outside the city, in Tarvaspää, close to the city of Espoo. You can get there by taking a bus from the Kamppi shopping center, and you have to buy a ticket from the driver. You cannot use the Helsinki public transport pass, as you go outside the city. Plus, as you get off, I have to warn you that you will have quite a long bit to walk, the castle is somewhere in the wood, and the signs leave quite a lot to be desired. Be armed with patience, have a map or even a GPS, and be ready to ask passers-by (you won't see so many of those either, so it's better if you go there accompanied).
      But once you get there I promise it is worth it. The museum is actually the house and studio of Finnish painter and sculptor Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865 - 1931), and is a small castle projected by the artist himself. 

                         

    I admit I wasn't aquainted with him and his works beforehand, but he is a key figure in Finnish art and history, and the museum provides exactly a full picture of his biography and works. It is a cosy and quiet spot in the middle of nature. And after the visit of the museum, I advise you to go for lunch at the cafe' nearby, which is a very pretty house inside and outside.

                                                   ****

And this was my Finnish adventure. I saw and learned quite a lot, on a relatively short visit, about a country which is not really 'in the spotlight' as a travel destination. However, it is absolutely worth it, from every point of view. Finland is art,  design, architecture, history, artisan work, nature, and last but not least, food. I am sure I will be back someday. Kiitos, Suomi! :)

Helsinki: the City where You Recharge Your Batteries (Part 2)

                               

           

       Last time I shared with you some general thoughts about Helsinki, its vibe as a city, and some cultural characteristics and quirks of the Finns as a nation. And today we shall proceed with visiting the most important tourist attractions of the city. Public transport is quite easy to use, and I would advise you to buy a ticket that is valid for the whole transport network, both over and underground, accross the entire city. I paid 22 euros for a 4 days' pass. Convenient, I would say. Another practical advice is to have a map of the city with you, in order to get a global view of all tourist attractions and where each of them is situated, as well as which bus, tram or metro station is the closest. I must say that unfortunately tourist attractions are not very well signalled and, more often than not, in order to find your way, you have to either be accompanied by a local, either have a map, either ask passers-by. Or possibly all 3. :)

        The first stopover will probably be at the Kaisaniemi metro station, close to the University of Helsinki, from where you will be within walking distance from one of the most famous images of the city. 

                          

This is the Helsinki Cathedral overlooking the Senate Square, from which you walk downhill towards the Esplanadi Park, and then the Market Square, located in the Helsinki Port, and where you can buy traditional food, souvenirs and Finnish artefacts. 

                         

From there, you move a little further away towars the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral, the biggest of this kind in a country where the main religion is not Orthodoxy. 

                              

     

     One metro stop further, you will get to the Central Railway Station (Rautatientori), which is already in itself an impressive building. 

                      

And from there, you can take a stroll on Mannerheimintie, one of Helsinki's most important boulevards, dedicated to Carl Gustaf Mannerheim, Finland's most important politician and former President. We will skip the 2 key museums on this boulevard, as we leave them for next time. After all, we save the best for last. But I will let you take a longer stroll, and hopefully enjoying a nice weather, just like I did on that day. 

                                

          As you reach the Parliament House, you will need to take the streets behind it and try to find the mysterious Rock Church, which does a very good job at hiding from tourists. Here, the map will come in very handy. 

                    

From the outside, this place looks like a cave, and moreover, the main entrance is not in the spot that you will find first. That is just the entrance to the garage, and from there you will still have a little bit to walk. But you will find it eventually. Outside it is still a cave, but inside it is a church: small and simple, decorated with rock and wood, yet packed with tourists. 

                   

It's not that church where you can find inner peace, precisely because of how crowded it is, so the best you can do is find a few good spots to take pictures, light a candle for your loved ones, and leave. 

         So, you will find yourself in Mannerheimintie again. I trust that you will find your way back, because I know you have a map. ;) And you will go up the road, and enjoy a long walk or take the tram, depends on the weather and on how tired you are. 

                         

The next stop will be the Sibelius Park, where you have another mission: finding the Sibelius Monument, an impressive yet surrealistic piece of modern art, dedicated to Finnish musician and composer Jan Sibelius. 

                               

      

   In Part 3, we will focus on museums: history and modernity, indoors and outdoors, near or far from the city center. Did I make you curious? Ok, this is what I wanted! So don't miss it! ;)

        

Helsinki: the City where You Recharge Your Batteries (Part 1)

        

         

   Have you ever been to Finland? Or at least to Helsinki? If you haven't, the first thing you should know is that, although it's not your usual mainstream destination, like Paris, London, or Rome, the Finnish capital surely has its own charm. And yes, there is more to it than saunas and freezing temperatures. We won't count Santa Claus and his reindeer, as we are not in Lapland this time. :) The second thing you should know, as I decided to point it out in the title, is that I surely recommend it if you are after relaxation and recharging your batteries, but probably not as much if you are after high adrenaline and looking to party hard.

                            

         

      Helsinki is a city that is not overpopulated  or suffocated by traffic. It is safe, with wide and clean roads, close to nature (parks, forests, lakes, sea), showing impressive architecture both in classic and modern styles. As a matter of fact, Finland is very resourceful when it comes to modern and contemporary design. 

                                     

        

     Culturally and historically speaking, Finland is a complex nation. From the Middle Ages, it became and integral part of Sweden following crusades, and later became a part of the Russian Empire at the beginning of the XIXth century. In the end, it became an independent state after the Russian Revolution, in 1917. Therefore, Finland is geographically located between Scandinavian countries and Russia, but its language is of the Uralic family. And surrealistic, if you ask me. :) Expect long words, double vowels and consonants, umlauts, and basically a language that bears no similarity to others (apart from Estonian, as far as I know). Did you know that 'terve' means 'hello', 'hyvaa' means 'fine', and 'kiitos' means 'thanks'? Oh, and 'please' doesn't exist. Plus, Swedish is an official language also in Finland, so expect all signs in all public places to be written also in Swedish. 

          What about the people? Finns are mostly blonde, with fair skin, and light-coloured eyes. They may not be as bubbly as the Italians or the Spanish (or the Romanians on a good day :P ), but nevertheless they don't lack friendliness, and surely are very polite, helpful and correct. And what impressed me especially is the way people help and support each other in neighbourhoods and small communities, be it with babysitting or any other chores. In my opinion, an evolved nation is one where people trust and help each other. Dear Finland, you'd have a lot to teach Romania! 

            Before we start exploring the city in part 2, I will invite you to dinner. Finnish dinner, that is. 

                   

You will be on a fish diet. You will eat fish every day, especially salmon, but not only. It can be salmon soup (for colder days), but also fish or seafood salads, or fish with potatoes, mushrooms of all kinds, and horseradish. I was also told that reindeer steak is very good, but I didn't want to try it. As I've always been against hunting, I would have felt bad. What will Santa drive afterwards? Poor Rudolph & company! :'( Another interesting dish that I liked is the rice pie: a thin pastry filled with tasty rice, and topped with egg paste.

                        

 For dessert, they have lots of scrumptious looking cakes, with cream, chocolate, caramel, and not only. Coffee is also very good and of several kinds. And for chocolate lovers, I highly-highly recommend to try the national Finnish brand of chocoalte, Fazer. They have loads of types of chocolate, with all the possible flavours, and I was also told that they are constantly inventing new stuff. ;)
             Speaking of food, you will also discover that Finns have their meals much earlier than 'continental' countries. They start work at 7 or 8 in the morning, which leads them to have breakfast at about 6 a.m., lunch at about 11, and dinner around 5 p.m. The early bird catches the: a) salmon; b) reindeer; c) Fazer! :D

           In part 2, we will proceed to discover the city and what I definitely advise you to visit. I didn't manage to see exactly everything I planned, but I already saw about 85-90%. And who knows... I might return someday. I surely would not mind! ;)