If Romania Asked for Birthday Presents, what Would They Be?

       

    Imagine you have a Grandma who you love to bits, but sometimes she's getting on your nerves, so much that you want to leave home. Because she is doing things that completely lack in logic, and making your life hard, while finding your way around, even in the smallest everyday matters. Those of you who may have had a problematic grandparent surely understand the analogy. And now, guess what? Your precious Granny is turning 99 years old. One year from now,  she will be 100. You know she's not going anywhere because she is immortal. So, you decide to buy her some gifts she could use in order to make her life (and yours) easier.

      Yes, Romania is 99 today, as the 1st of December marks the Great Unity of 1918, the day when we became one big country. 

      These days are difficult though, and so has been the entire year. Bad governance, tensions, protests, and consequently people getting more and more nervous and unsatisfied about life in Romania. Sometimes we got the feeling that all the political tensions had the (good) side effect of uniting the people, but this feeling was rather short lived, or comes occasionally in hot spurs, and then we go cold-turkey on each other again.

                                    

      What do we want, in order to stop feeling so fed up with everything? What presents could good-old Romania use before she turns 100?

     1. Leaders who (at least) try ruling the country considering people's needs, not only their own advantages and bank accounts. 

     2. More schools and hospitals, and better conditions in the already existing ones, and less churches and cathedrals, because we already have enough of these.

     3. And if it really has to be churches, may the Church get more involved in helping those in need. I know that some priests do get involved, but some others just glitter...on the surface. 

      4. Decent salaries and pensions, for everyone to be able to support themselves. It's heartbreaking to see some people beg in the street, whilst some politicians have so much money that they could feed a small town each.

      5. Good roads and infrastructure. Highways. And most of all, people who drive carefully. 

       6. People who respect each other, who use common sense and common courtesy and can lift a hand to help others if necessary. People who are also givers, not just getters.

     7. Care for the environment, be it in the middle of nature or on the cities' streets, as it is already suffering. 

    8. Restructuring roads and buildings. We have jewels of architecture, which unfortunately give the impression that as soon as you touch them with a finger, they are going to crumble.

    9. People who are learners and doers, permanently evolving, without complacency and ignorance, and without expecting exclusively solutions from 'above'.

         10. People who end up in high positions because they deserve it. 'Nuff said!

          11. Obtaining basic administrative documents with ease, and without complicated bureaucratic practices. 'Nuff said part 2!

         12. Last but not least... love. People (with and without power) who love her, each other and life in this country!

          I wanted to make a list of 100 presents, but in the end I kept it simple and realistic. And in my opinion, what I wrote here is not exactly 'the sun, moon and stars', although for us this stuff sometimes feels just as unattainable as pink unicorns. For other countries, they are just normal. Why shouldn't it be like this for us too?

        I will update you again this time next year. But in the meantime, I will make also another commitment to you. Next year will be our Romanian year. And my commitment is that until the 1st of December next year I will give you 100 reasons to love Romania. 
          Are we celebrating or protesting? Both. Personally, I'll be working tomorrow, so I'm not attending anything. But in my heart, it's both. People I know will be demonstrating in town, and I salute them. 
          Happy Birthday, crazy old bat! And now go party hard, before your sarmale get cold! :P

      

All Roads Lead to Rome... but Hurry Up!

       

           

              

    Exactly one week ago I set foot in the Eternal City, for the first time after 18 years. Yes, it's a lot of time, and it is something different to look at everything through the eyes of an adult, as opposed to the eyes of a teenager. However, it is mandatory to mention that I was there on business, so I didn't have much time to be a tourist, and feel the vibe and personality of each place, as I normally like.  And Rome has a lot to offer, from all points of view. My tourist activity this time was fast (but not furious :P), and unfortunately, rather superficial. Therefore, I will give you 15 pills about Rome, as basic departure points. 

                                 

1. Rome is really the Eternal City. Nowhere do you feel as connected to such a distant past, as you feel when you are around the Roman Forum, Traian's Column, or the Colosseum. In fact, the historical city of Rome is part of the UNESCO World Heritage.

                           

2. Rome is a meeting point for everything that means history, art and architecture. And you see this wherever you look. 

3. The city is very chaotic and very populated. It will not let you sleepwalk and relax while you visit, so you will feel the need to be in continuous movement yourself. 

4. Distances between one place and another are pretty long, even within the city center, and quite often the quality of the roads leave a lot to be desired. So, it's best to move around in metro.

5. If time is not on your side, try moving around in a hop on/ hop off tourist bus. You will get an overview of Rome's attractions.

6. Rome is mostly associated with scooters as a means of transportation. Think Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in 'Roman Holiday'

                            

7. You will see lots of funny trees on the roads around the city, and you may not have seen them anywhere in the world. Well, my dears, they are called domestic pines.

                              

8. Few monuments are as somptuous as the Altare Della Patria, of Piazza Venezia, built in honour of King Vittorio Emanuele II.

                             

9. The shores of river Tevere, with the view on St. Peter's Basilica or Castel St. Angelo, in autumn colours and under the rain, have something undeniably picturesque.

10. For Vatican visits you need an entire day, but it's absolutely worth it, whether you are religious or not. In fact, this small state within a state constitutes another UNESCO World Heritage associated with the Italian capital. This time, for me it was out of the question to make it, but I would still love to admire Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel and have a word with St. Peter one more time. ;)

11. Rome is also the home of Italian cinema, testified by the Cinecitta' studios. One of my other regrets is not having yet visited them, not even as a kid.

12. Romans are loud and chatty, but also very friendly. Plus, for some mysterious reason, in Rome selfies don't come out as nice as photos being taken by someone else. Which means that Rome must be enjoyed in company. So, travel with a friend or talk to the people around, and have your photo taken. 

13. The Trevi Fountain smells fresh and the water is clean. Don't forget to throw a coin in the water, in order to make sure you return to Rome, as the legend says.

                             

14. One local dish that you must absolutely try is pasta cacio e pepe, which literally means cheese and pepper. Soothing and a little spicy at the same time. Actually, I tried a little variation: cacio e pepe lasagna with artichokes. :D

                              

15. Last but not least, now that you just ate, there is a way to get rid of the extra calories without going to the gym. Climb the stairs of Piazza di Spagna! You'll be almost dead afterwards but it works. :P

                          

    In conclusion, to visit Rome in depth, seeing everything that needs to be seen and without feeling like you're running a marathon, you would probably need 4-5 days. Therefore, this fast and brief visit obligated me to a sequel. But I promise that this sequel will be slow, and I will tell you much more about the Eternal City. Until then, as an old song said... arrivederci Roma!

Helsinki: the City where You Recharge Your Batteries (Part 3)

                               

          

      I told you I would have saved the best for last. And in this last part dedicated to Helsinki, we are focusing on those spots that you definitely shouldn't miss. Because each of them contains a little bit of Finnish soul, embraced in various forms.

1. The National Museum of Finland - where art and history meet

     Situated on Mannerheimintie, where we found ourselves for the first time in the previous 'episode', this was my own favourite (actually, disputing the first spot with another place). First of all, the building itself is remarkable - for lovers of classic architecture, it is like a cosy castle, both outside and inside. Towers, painted ceiling, windows in stained glass, plus the karhu.... I mean, the bear who greets you at the doorway makes things even cuter. 

                                 

    Secondly, the objects on display are really numerous, and you really get a sense that you are being taken through the history of Finland in all details, from the Middle Ages to contemporary days. Weapons, Lutheran religious art, artworks of all kinds, musical instruments, costumes, furniture, images of monarchs of times past, and so much more. And guess what: unlike in Romanian museums, you are allowed to take pictures without extra taxes being perceived. 

                             

                          
      As a temporary exhibition on the ground floor, I had the chance to find a photography exhibition illustrating the contemporary history of Finland, from its war of independence from the Russian Empire to the present day, with all the social movements and issues that the country has faced.

2. Kiasma, the Contemporary Art Museum - the modern and the quirky.

                                   

History comes face-to-face with modernity, in every sense. Just accross the way from the National Museum of Finland,  we find Kiasma, the Contemporary Art Museum. An ultra-modern glass building, hosting literally the craziest works of art that I've ever seen. After my visit there, I found myself in awe in front of the levels of immagination that the human mind can reach. 

At the souvenir shop on the ground floor, I became aquainted with the Muumi cartoon characters, which represent the theme of lots of souvenirs: calendars, mugs, notebooks, or wall pictures. They can be found everywhere, are not very new or modern (on the contrary, I'd say 'refreshingly old-fashioned'), but nevertheless very cute. 

                                 

3. Suomenlinna - history in tune with nature.

                               

     From the old port, you can take the boat and head to Suomenlinna, an inhabited fortress expanding on various islands, and which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage. Its history starts in the 18th Century, and its role was to protect against Russian invasion. Afterwards, the fortess has been passed between Sweden and Finland. 

                              

Now it is like an open-air medieval museum, with walls, tunnels,  gates, cannons and monuments. And on top of all that, nice and small wooden houses can be found from place to place, and yes, despite of the 'middle of nowhere, just you and nature' feeling, it is inhabited. 

                           

4. Gallen-Kallela Museum - a hidden gem of genius

                               

   Now, this is the place disputing the top spot with the National Museum of Finland. As you might already know, my favourite places to visit as a tourists are castles and memorial houses, because I believe they have the biggest degree of warmth and personality. Plus, if you think about the fact that people of value, who made a difference in history and culture, have been present in the same rooms, the energy you get from that is priceless. 
       On my last day in Helsinki, I arrived at the Gallen-Kallela Museum, which is actually outside the city, in Tarvaspää, close to the city of Espoo. You can get there by taking a bus from the Kamppi shopping center, and you have to buy a ticket from the driver. You cannot use the Helsinki public transport pass, as you go outside the city. Plus, as you get off, I have to warn you that you will have quite a long bit to walk, the castle is somewhere in the wood, and the signs leave quite a lot to be desired. Be armed with patience, have a map or even a GPS, and be ready to ask passers-by (you won't see so many of those either, so it's better if you go there accompanied).
      But once you get there I promise it is worth it. The museum is actually the house and studio of Finnish painter and sculptor Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865 - 1931), and is a small castle projected by the artist himself. 

                         

    I admit I wasn't aquainted with him and his works beforehand, but he is a key figure in Finnish art and history, and the museum provides exactly a full picture of his biography and works. It is a cosy and quiet spot in the middle of nature. And after the visit of the museum, I advise you to go for lunch at the cafe' nearby, which is a very pretty house inside and outside.

                                                   ****

And this was my Finnish adventure. I saw and learned quite a lot, on a relatively short visit, about a country which is not really 'in the spotlight' as a travel destination. However, it is absolutely worth it, from every point of view. Finland is art,  design, architecture, history, artisan work, nature, and last but not least, food. I am sure I will be back someday. Kiitos, Suomi! :)

Helsinki: the City where You Recharge Your Batteries (Part 2)

                               

           

       Last time I shared with you some general thoughts about Helsinki, its vibe as a city, and some cultural characteristics and quirks of the Finns as a nation. And today we shall proceed with visiting the most important tourist attractions of the city. Public transport is quite easy to use, and I would advise you to buy a ticket that is valid for the whole transport network, both over and underground, accross the entire city. I paid 22 euros for a 4 days' pass. Convenient, I would say. Another practical advice is to have a map of the city with you, in order to get a global view of all tourist attractions and where each of them is situated, as well as which bus, tram or metro station is the closest. I must say that unfortunately tourist attractions are not very well signalled and, more often than not, in order to find your way, you have to either be accompanied by a local, either have a map, either ask passers-by. Or possibly all 3. :)

        The first stopover will probably be at the Kaisaniemi metro station, close to the University of Helsinki, from where you will be within walking distance from one of the most famous images of the city. 

                          

This is the Helsinki Cathedral overlooking the Senate Square, from which you walk downhill towards the Esplanadi Park, and then the Market Square, located in the Helsinki Port, and where you can buy traditional food, souvenirs and Finnish artefacts. 

                         

From there, you move a little further away towars the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral, the biggest of this kind in a country where the main religion is not Orthodoxy. 

                              

     

     One metro stop further, you will get to the Central Railway Station (Rautatientori), which is already in itself an impressive building. 

                      

And from there, you can take a stroll on Mannerheimintie, one of Helsinki's most important boulevards, dedicated to Carl Gustaf Mannerheim, Finland's most important politician and former President. We will skip the 2 key museums on this boulevard, as we leave them for next time. After all, we save the best for last. But I will let you take a longer stroll, and hopefully enjoying a nice weather, just like I did on that day. 

                                

          As you reach the Parliament House, you will need to take the streets behind it and try to find the mysterious Rock Church, which does a very good job at hiding from tourists. Here, the map will come in very handy. 

                    

From the outside, this place looks like a cave, and moreover, the main entrance is not in the spot that you will find first. That is just the entrance to the garage, and from there you will still have a little bit to walk. But you will find it eventually. Outside it is still a cave, but inside it is a church: small and simple, decorated with rock and wood, yet packed with tourists. 

                   

It's not that church where you can find inner peace, precisely because of how crowded it is, so the best you can do is find a few good spots to take pictures, light a candle for your loved ones, and leave. 

         So, you will find yourself in Mannerheimintie again. I trust that you will find your way back, because I know you have a map. ;) And you will go up the road, and enjoy a long walk or take the tram, depends on the weather and on how tired you are. 

                         

The next stop will be the Sibelius Park, where you have another mission: finding the Sibelius Monument, an impressive yet surrealistic piece of modern art, dedicated to Finnish musician and composer Jan Sibelius. 

                               

      

   In Part 3, we will focus on museums: history and modernity, indoors and outdoors, near or far from the city center. Did I make you curious? Ok, this is what I wanted! So don't miss it! ;)