Last time we spoke about St. Nicholas and the presents he leaves in our boots, but now, as a couple of weeks have already passed, Christmas is slowly but surely approaching. Well, as you can imagine, in Romania Christmas is an equally big celebration as in the rest of Europe. However, let's see together what happens, and then you will decide how similar or different it is, compared to your own country. First of all, I have to mention that there are very big differences between Christmas in cities and Christmas in the country side, or differences between various regions of the country. Therefore, now I will talk about Christmas in Bucharest and southern Romania. Well, it might not be as poetic or picturesque, but nevertheless, this is the Christmas I grew up with and which I can tell you about. :) An essential part, which applies to the entire country, is that Christmas is generally spent with the family, immediate and extended, and even close family friends, who are like family anyways. Of course, contexts may vary, but that's the general note.
Christmas Markets:
Christmas markets have become a part of our lives more in the more recent, post-communist years. Generally, they are located in the cities' central squares, but also in parks or shopping centers. What happens there? Creativity at its best, different from year to year, as far as lights and decorations are concerned. Small shops designed as chalets, selling... pretty much everything. Christmas home decorations, mulled wine and other home-made drinks (alcoholic or not), food of all sorts (including warm food to be eaten on the spot), sweets, handmade clothes and accessories, and other traditional art work from all parts of the country. Moreover, live music is on every evening, especially in bigger Christmas markets.
Home Decorating
As you can imagine, the main 'hero' is the Christmas tree. Shamefully for the Romanian population (myself including), we still have the tendency to prefer natural trees, because of the scent. That we are not exactly protecting our forests by doing so, it is an unfortunate matter but we are working on it. And that we'll spend the following next months cleaning up every single needle in the carpet, that counts as extra entertainment. :) Of course, apart from the tree, you can also get creative with other kinds of decorations as well: Santa Claus and snowman puppets, Christmas themed table cloths and napkins, pine crowns to be placed on the door, or small branches on the table, as well as suspended threads of lights around the house (the latter were my grandad's speciality).
The Music
A very typical Romanian practice has to do with singing, playing and listening to 'colinde', which are popular Christmas songs, many of them by anonymous authors, learned from generation to generation. Themes are either religious, with the birth of Christ the saviour, either simply Christmas-y, about winter and snow, and the family being together, and Santa Claus bringing presents. What you may not know is that brave and preferably talented children and youngsters are traditionally walking from house to house on Christmas eve, to sing this kind of songs, and get sweets or money as a reward. This tradition is nowadays practiced more in the country side, but it does happen in the city sometimes as well. Should you trust to open the door to them? Here is a tip: you generally hear them sing when they enter the apartment building. Some of them have good voices and sing really well, and generally are music or theology students. These are those worth letting in and listening to. ;)
The Presents
Moș Crăciun (Old Man Christmas), a.k.a. Santa Claus comes on the night of the 24th to the 25 of December. And we find the presents when we wake up in the morning. Preferably, they should be a surprise. Which leads to hiding the presents in the most improbable places and packages, as well as snooping around the house in the middle of the night, when the rest of the family is asleep (or so you think), and make sure Santa Claus doesn't get caught. :) Regardless of the budget, Moș Crăciun always gets to be generous one way or another, and no matter how old we are, we are still waiting for him. Eagerly. Very eagerly. :)
The Food
Did I just save the best for last? :P As I have said numerous times, Romanians don't do 'light' when it comes to food. And when it comes to Christmas, we migh as well call ourselves '50 shades of meat', with occasional appearences from vegetables and other stuff. The more religious of us will go for a few weeks before Christmas without any animal foods (meat, dairy or eggs), but my family never did, or at the very most tried in vain. :) However, on Christmas day, it's time to let loose, and pray that little Jesus saves you liver as well. The main meal, when everybody gathers around the dining room table, is the lunch of the 25th of December, and these are the main heroes:
- sarmale:
The main course, but also the most popular. Probably the most famous Romanian dish, although there are variations of it in several Eastern European countries as well. Basically, it is minced meat, normally pork, all rolled up in cabbage leaves, and served with polenta, sour cream and green chilly pepper. Let the holy cholesterol rise! :)
- piftie:
An appetizer, probably the second in popularity after sarmale. It consists of meat in gelatin, generally pieces of pork legs and ears (the skin is important), adding sometimes pieces of vegetables (which makes it even more tasty).
- sausages:
All kinds, all compositions, all shapes and sizes. 'Nuff said!
- pickles:
Vegetables in spiced brine, sometimes also with vinegar, with added black pepper, celery and dill. These veggies include cucumbers, red pepper, cauliflower, green tomatoes, carrots or yellow beans.
- cozonac:
The main dessert, which is a baked loaf cake, with fillings varying between walnut cream, cocoa, rahat (the Romanian version of Turkish delight), or raisins.
Of course, Christmas lunch is not only limited to these foods, but they are basically the ones that should not be missing. Otherwise, you only have to get creative and create abundance... for the stomach. :)
Have I convinced you to visit Romania next Christmas? Despite the cold, it's a very warm celebration, and we are all looking forward to it. Next time, we will talk about New Year's Eve. In the meantime, I shall wish you Crăciun Fericit (easy to figure out what that means), and to spend Christmas with those you love the most, and to find joy in every moment.
