Athens & Piraeus: Stories of Vibes and Atmosphere

         

    We surely need a separate post to capture the vibe of Athens, beyond the main tourist attractions. And I must confess that you will not often see a city so crowded, even unexpectedly cosmopolitan, with people of all social conditions. Yet, this crowd, surprisingly, is not disturbing at all. Also, like all capital cities, Athens is full of life at all hours. The streets are full of olive and orange trees, as well as coloured flowers, still there in the month of November. Cafes, markets, shops and restaurants can be found all over the place, and the only dilemma you will have is where to go first. 

                               

       
       If, like myself, you are going there for a few days as a fully-immersed tourist, I would advise you to buy a 2 days' pass on a hop on & hop off tourist bus, such as Athens Open Tour. A 2 days pass, bought online, cost 18 euro per person, so watch out for such special offers. The advantage is that it stops at all points of interest in the city, and you can get on and get off how many times you want, watching out for all the stopovers on the map. With the headphones offered as you get on, you can listen to the description of all the places you pass, in several languages. Speaking of which... yes, Greek looks and sounds like an impossible language, especially because of the alphabet. However, just have a go at learning some phrases, at least for fun, and to use them to find your way around. And who knows, you might even like it! :)

                        

                                         

    
     When you are in between archeological sites and museums, you should definitely not miss Plaka, which is one of the most ancient areas of Athens, starting from Acropolis, and ending around Monastiraki Square. Plaka is made up of pretty and narrow streets, small buildings in typical Greek architecture, with white marble and iron decorations, with all the characteristic vegetation and lively colours.
      Explore the numerous shops all the way to Monastiraki Square, also one of the most important squares in the city, especially for shopping, where you can find everything you want: ceramic and clay objects, paintings and drawings, typical Greek sweets, clothes and jewels with traditional motifs, coloured leather bags, cosmetics based on olive oil and donkey milk, and the list could go on and on. Greeks like to negotiate, so definitely expect that when you go shopping. You won't buy anything (or almost) at the price displayed on the label. 
                          

      
       Also, if you go to Monastiraki on a Sunday, be prepared to see the biggest crowd you will ever see, from the strays and homeless of the city, to rich and elegant people, locals and tourists, who enjoy a day out. 
                           

                            
       As you reach lunch or dinner time, which I'm sure you will, the Monastiraki area (and not only) will offer you a wide choice of places to eat. Obviously, Greece is famous for its cuisine, so I wouldn't even recommend that you eat somewhere else than traditional Greek restaurants and taverns. The choice of dishes is, again, very broad. But by no means should you miss moussaka, a dish based on minced meat, layered with sliced aubergines and potatoes, and topped with white sauce. Not particularly light, but delicious. :) Greek cuisine also includes souvlaki (meat skewers), traditional salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, olives and feta cheese, large seafood plates to share, and pastries of various types. Also keep an eye on traditional Greek yogurt (which is different from what you find in supermarkets in the rest of Europe), and for the best olives (both black and green) that you will ever eat.

                  

          
     Last but not least, as you might remember, I promised you a bonus trip. This is the neighbouring town of Piraeus, Greece's most important and ancient harbour. And actually, the tourist buses which I was telling you about also offer an itinerary towards Piraeus, so it would be a pity to miss it. Still with a very strong 'Greek' atmosphere, Piraeus is also cleaner and less crowded than Athens, and, at least on the first glance, more exclusively higher class. A relaxing town by the sea, where it will be a pleasure to sip your coffee by the shore, and last but not least, you will be left wanting an apartment and a yacht right there and then. :)

                 

       

      My conclusion about Athens is that it is indeed a city where history and ancient civilizations meet a dynamic world, with vibrant colours, exquisite taste, and people permanently in motion. It was a perfect birthday present, and I am looking forward to going back someday. 
          ευχαριστώ, Αθήνα! I will not stay away too long! 
           

          

Athens: Chasing Greek Gods, Exploring Greek History (Part 2)

     

   After having seen some of the most famous archeological sites, which are probably the first landmarks that comes to mind when we talk about Athens, let's proceed to other places worth seeing.

                            

       
      Syntagma Square, where the Greek Parliament is situated, is the city's central square, as well as the main meeting point of all means of public transportation. So, inevitably, you will end up there and you will pass by several times during your stay. I suggest that you start a day with a small visit to Syntagma Square, and be there about 15 minutes before the hour becomes sharp. Why? Not because Prime Minister Tsipras is offering you some Ouzo, but because you absolutely must witness the change of guards. The soldiers guarding the Parliament are really nice to watch. 

                         

                            

They wear Greek traditional costumes and are really... unmovable. Serious, straight, no facial expression. You can take pictures of them, but without crossing a certain line. Or, when the surveillance guard allows, you can come close and photograph yourself next to them. But, beware: you must not touch them, or move around them. Otherwise, you will watch them walking around with ultra-synchronized movements, that they really look like toy soldiers. And when the guard changes, it is a real show going on. It doesn't last more than ten minutes, but it is surely very dynamic and very precise.
       Athens is full of museums, from more general ones, to more thematic ones (war, Cycladic art, ceramics, folklore, musical instruments, numismatic, and so much more). Unfortunately, with such a short stay, you will not have time to visit them all, much as you probably would like to. However, I will advise you to visit two very important museums, the National Archeology Museum and the Byzantine Art Museum. Of course, beware that on Mondays most museums are closed.

              

         
     The National Archeology Museum is still about rocks, of course! :) Jokes aside, it is a complete incursion throughout Greece's history, from prehistory to late antiquity. 
          

 Marble, gold, bronze, frescos and so much more, together with textual explanations of the historical times associated. My personal favourite was the Cycladic section, as well as the Tyrins wall paintings. 

                            

Plus, impressive collections of vases, statues of the most important gods and mythological creatures of Ancient Greece, and so much more. Zeus, Aphrodite, Posseidon, and poor Dyonissus, who must be really suffering... from too much wine! ;)

                

            
 The Byzantine Art Museum is also very emblematic as far as history is concerned, especially because it would somehow continue the historical evolution, from late antiquity to late middle ages. 

It does contain a high quantity of religious art, but not only. You will also see costumes, numismatic, documents, sculptures, reliefs, and craftwork of various types. Not to mention that the building itself is a work of art. 
             Another museum which I came accross totally by chance is the Folklore Museum, situated in the Plaka area (we will talk about it more in the next post).
                         

It is very small, and no entrance fee is perceived. Actually, it almost looks like a shop. Nevertheless, it is full of colour, handmade object of various types, and in various fabrics, from paper to ceramic and glass, as well as colourful paintings and dolls in traditional costumes. Apparently of an innocent simplicity, but, as you look, you start to wonder how human hands could be capable of such patience and minutiousness.
           In our last post on Athens, we will talk about the city's vibe: colour, taste, noise, how to get around as a tourist, and a bonus day trip to a very charming and relaxing place. 
            
             

Athens: Chasing Greek Gods, Exploring Greek History (Part 1)

   

     

     Those of you who know that I was away last week, I am sure that you've been looking forward to know about my experience in Athens. And now is the time. Actually, this is the first of three portions. My trip to Athens was a 4 day city break, to celebrate my I-forgot-the-number birthday. :P It was not my first time in Athens: that happened when I was in high school, on a school trip, and the second time was 4 years ago, but it lasted less than 24 hours, before I embraked on the bus to Patra. Therefore, this was the time when I was grown-up enough to know what to explore, and how to explore a city.

    First and foremost, keep in mind that Athens is indeed full of history, which goes back 5000 years. And, when we think about ancient history, Athens and Rome are the ultimate places to be. This time though, we are talking about the 1st of the two cities. Sometimes we joke that we go to Athens to see rocks, but we know that it's simply amazing how these antique sites have lasted for milleniums, and they represent precisely the main charm of the city. So, let me take you through the most famous 'rocks' of Athens! ;)

    

     

     1. Acropolis

     Its name in Greek means exactly 'the high city', and is surely the most famous landmark of the Greek capital. Situated on the top of a hill, the Acropolis dominates over the rest of the city, and consists of several archeological sites making up a small citadel. It was also declared UNESCO World Heritage in 1987. We were very lucky to visit it for free, as it was a special offer of the first Sunday in November. Otherwise, visiting the Acropolis costs 30 euro per person. So, saving a significant amount of money for seeing the symbol of Athens was one heck of a birthday present! ;) Also, the fact that we arrived there at the first hour of the morning surely helped, as we had time to see everything before the place became packed with tourists. 

                             

 As I said, the Acropolis comprises various parts, but seeing them will not take you more than 1-2 hours. Of all of the sites and temples, I will draw your attetion to the Parthenon, perhaps the most important landmark, although at the moment it's under reconstruction, so you won't see it in all its splendour. Afterwards, it is worth mentioning the Theatre of Dionysus, the Temple of Athena and the entry gate Propylaea. 

     2. The Ancient Agora

     Downhill from the Acropolis, you can find the Ancient Agora, what in ancient time used to be the main square of Athens, where the citizens used to gather for a wide variety of purposes. 

Also, this is an archelogical site which includes several components, of which the most important are the Odeon of Agrippa, the Temple of Hephaistos (which bears a striking resemblance to the Parthenon, so be careful not to confuse them), but also the Museum of Ancient Agora at the Stoa of Attalos, which is a picturesque setting in itself, and exibits several artworks and ancient remains. The Ancient Agora is like a park in which you can take a quiet stroll, and is not as full of tourists as the Acropolis. 

            

      3. Temple of Zeus and Adrian's Arch

      The last-but-not-least archeological setting, situated withing walking distance from Syntagma Square and right next to the National Gardens, Adrian's Arch was build in the 2nd century A.D., and it was meant to separate the old and new cities of Athens. Just as you cross it, you enter the site of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, where the entrance only costs 3 euros per person. This visit will be quick, but nevertheless worthy, as it is an ancient spot in the heart of this hectic city.

          

     In Part 2, we will be back with Syntagma Square and something which you should not miss about it, as well as two key museums encompassing the history of Greece, but also the perfect place for shopping in Athens. 

     

The Romanian Traveller: Sinaia - the Town where You Feel Like Royalty (Part 2)

          

   

     After we started our trip to Sinaia with castles Peleș and its little brother Pelișor, we will continue with other picturesque tourist attractions, which you may or may not have heard of. In fact, compared to the two castles, these venues are less packed with tourists, which means that you have more time and space to enjoy your time there.

     

Sinaia Monastery

For the more religious of us, but not necessarily, the Sinaia Monastery is worth visiting for its architecture and sensation of peace and calm that it creates. You know me, I am not exactly a religious person or a church goer, but I must confess that this place has something special. It's like you feel close to... God... divinity... your departed loved ones... or whoever you choose to believe in. 

Apart from the main church, which is very artistic and imposing, like most Orthodox churches, there is also a smaller, old church, which we found empty. No priest, no sermon, no other tourists. Silence, and just perfect to find some peace of mind, and admire the antique painted icons on its walls, which time has partly erased. Also you must not miss the Museum of Religious Art, which might appear closed, but it's not. All you have to do is ask the guard, and someone will open it and guide you around. The most interesting part of it is that you will learn about the history of the town of Sinaia.

The George Enescu Memorial House

George Enescu (1881-1955) is Romania's most famous composer of worldwide fame. And in the 1920s he had this house built in Sinaia, to which he periodically used as a retreat and a place to create. Beware though, that the road till you get to the house is long, although the direction signs are present even from the center of Sinaia. Don't be tempted to believe that it's near the center, 'cause it's not. You will have at least 30 minutes to walk, and you'll even end up in some 'middle of nowhere' place, close to the railroads, and you might even think you're lost. But you're not lost, rest assured that you'll get there. The good part is that it's a plain road, so no hills and mountains to climb. 

However, as soon as you get there, despite the long road and the proximity to the railways, you will understand that it deserved to be an artist's oasis of silence. The villa is quite big, but it does not take a lot of time to visit it. A spacious terrace with a garden view, a succession of pretty and cosy rooms, each of them tastefully decorated and serving a specific purpose, ending with a small museum on the top floor. At the entrance, you will be given audio guides in various languages, which explain everything about the house and each room, but also the story of George Enescu's life. 

Sinaia City Museum (Stirbey Palace)

More than just a museum, this little castle is actually an architectural gem hidden on a small street parallel to the main road, and behind other houses. But you definitely should not miss it. 

First and foremost, it is worth even to be admired from the outside, and on the inside you can find just enough information related to the city of Sinaia, its history and its development accross time, in documents, objects, images and filmed footage. You do not depend on guided tours, but all necessary explanations are on display in each room. 


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How to get to Sinaia? Most residents of Bucharest go there by car, but the train can also be a good solution, especially because Sinaia has the prettiest train station that I've seen in the whole Romania, also known as the Royal Station. A wide range of accommodation solutions is also available, from villas to high-brow 4 and 5 star hotels on the main road. Plus, you can find everything that you want also in terms of shops, supermarkets, restaurants, souvenirs and handicrafts. After all, Sinaia is not just a touristic resort, but a town in its own right.

Beauty, elegance, and a fascination of times past. I think that it sums it up. Go and convince yourself! ;)