Romanian Holiday Spirit: what Should You Expect if You Spend Christmas in Romania?

     

 

   Last time we spoke about St. Nicholas and the presents he leaves in our boots, but now, as a couple of weeks have already passed, Christmas is slowly but surely approaching. Well, as you can imagine, in Romania Christmas is an equally big celebration as in the rest of Europe. However, let's see together what happens, and then you will decide how similar or different it is, compared to your own country. First of all, I have to mention that there are very big differences between Christmas in cities and Christmas in the country side, or differences between various regions of the country. Therefore, now I will talk about Christmas in Bucharest and southern Romania. Well, it might not be as poetic or picturesque, but nevertheless, this is the Christmas I grew up with and which I can tell you about. :) An essential part, which applies to the entire country, is that Christmas is generally spent with the family, immediate and extended, and even close family friends, who are like family anyways. Of course, contexts may vary, but that's the general note. 

Christmas Markets:

Christmas markets have become a part of our lives more in the more recent, post-communist years. Generally, they are located in the cities' central squares, but also in parks or shopping centers. What happens there? Creativity at its best, different from year to year, as far as lights and decorations are concerned. Small shops designed as chalets, selling... pretty much everything. Christmas home decorations, mulled wine and other home-made drinks (alcoholic or not), food of all sorts (including warm food to be eaten on the spot), sweets, handmade clothes and accessories, and other traditional art work from all parts of the country. Moreover, live music is on every evening, especially in bigger Christmas markets.

Home Decorating

  As you can imagine, the main 'hero' is the Christmas tree. Shamefully for the Romanian population (myself including), we still have the tendency to prefer natural trees, because of the scent. That we are not exactly protecting our forests by doing so, it is an unfortunate matter but we are working on it. And that we'll spend the following next months cleaning up every single needle in the carpet, that counts as extra entertainment. :) Of course, apart from the tree, you can also get creative with other kinds of decorations as well: Santa Claus and snowman puppets, Christmas themed table cloths and napkins, pine crowns to be placed on the door, or small branches on the table, as well as suspended threads of lights around the house (the latter were my grandad's speciality). 

The Music

A very typical Romanian practice has to do with singing, playing and listening to 'colinde', which are popular Christmas songs, many of them by anonymous authors, learned from generation to generation. Themes are either religious, with the birth of Christ the saviour, either simply Christmas-y, about winter and snow, and the family being together, and Santa Claus bringing presents. What you may not know is that brave and preferably talented children and youngsters are traditionally walking from house to house on Christmas eve, to sing this kind of songs, and get sweets or money as a reward. This tradition is nowadays practiced more in the country side, but it does happen in the city sometimes as well. Should you trust to open the door to them? Here is a tip: you generally hear them sing when they enter the apartment building. Some of them have good voices and sing really well, and generally are music or theology students. These are those worth letting in and listening to. ;) 

The Presents

Moș Crăciun (Old Man Christmas), a.k.a. Santa Claus comes on the night of the 24th to the 25 of December. And we find the presents when we wake up in the morning. Preferably, they should be a surprise. Which leads to hiding the presents in the most improbable places and packages, as well as snooping around the house in the middle of the night, when the rest of the family is asleep (or so you think), and make sure Santa Claus doesn't get caught. :) Regardless of the budget, Moș Crăciun always gets to be generous one way or another, and no matter how old we are, we are still waiting for him. Eagerly. Very eagerly. :) 

The Food

Did I just save the best for last? :P As I have said numerous times, Romanians don't do 'light' when it comes to food. And when it comes to Christmas, we migh as well call ourselves '50 shades of meat', with occasional appearences from vegetables and other stuff. The more religious of us will go for a few weeks before Christmas without any animal foods (meat, dairy or eggs), but my family never did, or at the very most tried in vain. :) However, on Christmas day, it's time to let loose, and pray that little Jesus saves you liver as well. The main meal, when everybody gathers around the dining room table, is the lunch of the 25th of December, and these are the main heroes: 

- sarmale: 

The main course, but also the most popular. Probably the most famous Romanian dish, although there are variations of it in several Eastern European countries as well. Basically, it is minced meat, normally pork, all rolled up in cabbage leaves, and served with polenta, sour cream and green chilly pepper. Let the holy cholesterol rise! :)

- piftie: 

An appetizer, probably the second in popularity after sarmale. It consists of meat in gelatin, generally pieces of pork legs and ears (the skin is important), adding sometimes pieces of vegetables (which makes it even more tasty).

- sausages:

All kinds, all compositions, all shapes and sizes. 'Nuff said!

- pickles:

Vegetables in spiced brine, sometimes also with vinegar, with added black pepper, celery and dill. These veggies include cucumbers, red pepper, cauliflower, green tomatoes, carrots or yellow beans. 

- cozonac:

The main dessert, which is a baked loaf cake, with fillings varying between walnut cream, cocoa, rahat (the Romanian version of Turkish delight), or raisins.

Of course, Christmas lunch is not only limited to these foods, but they are basically the ones that should not be missing. Otherwise, you only have to get creative and create abundance... for the stomach. :)

Have I convinced you to visit Romania next Christmas? Despite the cold, it's a very warm celebration, and we are all looking forward to it. Next time, we will talk about New Year's Eve. In the meantime, I shall wish you Crăciun Fericit (easy to figure out what that means), and to spend Christmas with those you love the most, and to find joy in every moment. 

Romanian Holiday Spirit: Get Your Boots Ready for St. Nicholas

       

     I made a commitment that for the month of December I will get you in the holiday spirit. And I will do it my way: the Romanian way. :) Because we are a country full of traditions, obviously respected more in the country side, but also in cities. And yes, also in a hectic city like Bucharest - more so, as here the noise and the crowd is meant to become amplified from all points of view, throughout the month.

          Let me start with the fact that Christmas lights in the streets are officially lit on the 1st of December, which coincides with our National Day, also known as the Great Unity, when we became one big country. And now, we are one big country who is getting ready to celebrate, unitedly, in merry and noisy ways. :)

           Our first celebration is St. Nicholas (Sfântul Nicolae), on the 6th of December. We are not the only country celebrating him, as he is present in several European cultures, but we are very fond of him. It is like an ouverture to Christmas, and Father Nicholas (Moș Nicolae) is also very generous with presents, especially if you've been good. ;)

          So, here is what you have to do. Tonight, make sure your boots are clean, and just before bedtime, place them next to the window. Moș Nicolae is going to enter through the window, and tomorrow, when you wake up, you will find your boots full of presents. If you've been good, that is. Because if you haven't, you are very likely to find a rod, to be used on the bums of naughty kids. It is important to mention that Moș Nicolae is in charge with bringing sweets, or at least presents which are small in size and can fit into the boots. He leaves the big and heavy stuff to Santa Claus. 

                          

      Therefore, please prepare your boots. And yes, this applies also if you are a grown-up. And if you live on your own... oh, well... simply go shopping, buy small gifts, and treat yourself. After all, I know you've been good. And you know it too. ;) 

Athens & Piraeus: Stories of Vibes and Atmosphere

         

    We surely need a separate post to capture the vibe of Athens, beyond the main tourist attractions. And I must confess that you will not often see a city so crowded, even unexpectedly cosmopolitan, with people of all social conditions. Yet, this crowd, surprisingly, is not disturbing at all. Also, like all capital cities, Athens is full of life at all hours. The streets are full of olive and orange trees, as well as coloured flowers, still there in the month of November. Cafes, markets, shops and restaurants can be found all over the place, and the only dilemma you will have is where to go first. 

                               

       
       If, like myself, you are going there for a few days as a fully-immersed tourist, I would advise you to buy a 2 days' pass on a hop on & hop off tourist bus, such as Athens Open Tour. A 2 days pass, bought online, cost 18 euro per person, so watch out for such special offers. The advantage is that it stops at all points of interest in the city, and you can get on and get off how many times you want, watching out for all the stopovers on the map. With the headphones offered as you get on, you can listen to the description of all the places you pass, in several languages. Speaking of which... yes, Greek looks and sounds like an impossible language, especially because of the alphabet. However, just have a go at learning some phrases, at least for fun, and to use them to find your way around. And who knows, you might even like it! :)

                        

                                         

    
     When you are in between archeological sites and museums, you should definitely not miss Plaka, which is one of the most ancient areas of Athens, starting from Acropolis, and ending around Monastiraki Square. Plaka is made up of pretty and narrow streets, small buildings in typical Greek architecture, with white marble and iron decorations, with all the characteristic vegetation and lively colours.
      Explore the numerous shops all the way to Monastiraki Square, also one of the most important squares in the city, especially for shopping, where you can find everything you want: ceramic and clay objects, paintings and drawings, typical Greek sweets, clothes and jewels with traditional motifs, coloured leather bags, cosmetics based on olive oil and donkey milk, and the list could go on and on. Greeks like to negotiate, so definitely expect that when you go shopping. You won't buy anything (or almost) at the price displayed on the label. 
                          

      
       Also, if you go to Monastiraki on a Sunday, be prepared to see the biggest crowd you will ever see, from the strays and homeless of the city, to rich and elegant people, locals and tourists, who enjoy a day out. 
                           

                            
       As you reach lunch or dinner time, which I'm sure you will, the Monastiraki area (and not only) will offer you a wide choice of places to eat. Obviously, Greece is famous for its cuisine, so I wouldn't even recommend that you eat somewhere else than traditional Greek restaurants and taverns. The choice of dishes is, again, very broad. But by no means should you miss moussaka, a dish based on minced meat, layered with sliced aubergines and potatoes, and topped with white sauce. Not particularly light, but delicious. :) Greek cuisine also includes souvlaki (meat skewers), traditional salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, olives and feta cheese, large seafood plates to share, and pastries of various types. Also keep an eye on traditional Greek yogurt (which is different from what you find in supermarkets in the rest of Europe), and for the best olives (both black and green) that you will ever eat.

                  

          
     Last but not least, as you might remember, I promised you a bonus trip. This is the neighbouring town of Piraeus, Greece's most important and ancient harbour. And actually, the tourist buses which I was telling you about also offer an itinerary towards Piraeus, so it would be a pity to miss it. Still with a very strong 'Greek' atmosphere, Piraeus is also cleaner and less crowded than Athens, and, at least on the first glance, more exclusively higher class. A relaxing town by the sea, where it will be a pleasure to sip your coffee by the shore, and last but not least, you will be left wanting an apartment and a yacht right there and then. :)

                 

       

      My conclusion about Athens is that it is indeed a city where history and ancient civilizations meet a dynamic world, with vibrant colours, exquisite taste, and people permanently in motion. It was a perfect birthday present, and I am looking forward to going back someday. 
          ευχαριστώ, Αθήνα! I will not stay away too long! 
           

          

Athens: Chasing Greek Gods, Exploring Greek History (Part 2)

     

   After having seen some of the most famous archeological sites, which are probably the first landmarks that comes to mind when we talk about Athens, let's proceed to other places worth seeing.

                            

       
      Syntagma Square, where the Greek Parliament is situated, is the city's central square, as well as the main meeting point of all means of public transportation. So, inevitably, you will end up there and you will pass by several times during your stay. I suggest that you start a day with a small visit to Syntagma Square, and be there about 15 minutes before the hour becomes sharp. Why? Not because Prime Minister Tsipras is offering you some Ouzo, but because you absolutely must witness the change of guards. The soldiers guarding the Parliament are really nice to watch. 

                         

                            

They wear Greek traditional costumes and are really... unmovable. Serious, straight, no facial expression. You can take pictures of them, but without crossing a certain line. Or, when the surveillance guard allows, you can come close and photograph yourself next to them. But, beware: you must not touch them, or move around them. Otherwise, you will watch them walking around with ultra-synchronized movements, that they really look like toy soldiers. And when the guard changes, it is a real show going on. It doesn't last more than ten minutes, but it is surely very dynamic and very precise.
       Athens is full of museums, from more general ones, to more thematic ones (war, Cycladic art, ceramics, folklore, musical instruments, numismatic, and so much more). Unfortunately, with such a short stay, you will not have time to visit them all, much as you probably would like to. However, I will advise you to visit two very important museums, the National Archeology Museum and the Byzantine Art Museum. Of course, beware that on Mondays most museums are closed.

              

         
     The National Archeology Museum is still about rocks, of course! :) Jokes aside, it is a complete incursion throughout Greece's history, from prehistory to late antiquity. 
          

 Marble, gold, bronze, frescos and so much more, together with textual explanations of the historical times associated. My personal favourite was the Cycladic section, as well as the Tyrins wall paintings. 

                            

Plus, impressive collections of vases, statues of the most important gods and mythological creatures of Ancient Greece, and so much more. Zeus, Aphrodite, Posseidon, and poor Dyonissus, who must be really suffering... from too much wine! ;)

                

            
 The Byzantine Art Museum is also very emblematic as far as history is concerned, especially because it would somehow continue the historical evolution, from late antiquity to late middle ages. 

It does contain a high quantity of religious art, but not only. You will also see costumes, numismatic, documents, sculptures, reliefs, and craftwork of various types. Not to mention that the building itself is a work of art. 
             Another museum which I came accross totally by chance is the Folklore Museum, situated in the Plaka area (we will talk about it more in the next post).
                         

It is very small, and no entrance fee is perceived. Actually, it almost looks like a shop. Nevertheless, it is full of colour, handmade object of various types, and in various fabrics, from paper to ceramic and glass, as well as colourful paintings and dolls in traditional costumes. Apparently of an innocent simplicity, but, as you look, you start to wonder how human hands could be capable of such patience and minutiousness.
           In our last post on Athens, we will talk about the city's vibe: colour, taste, noise, how to get around as a tourist, and a bonus day trip to a very charming and relaxing place. 
            
             

Athens: Chasing Greek Gods, Exploring Greek History (Part 1)

   

     

     Those of you who know that I was away last week, I am sure that you've been looking forward to know about my experience in Athens. And now is the time. Actually, this is the first of three portions. My trip to Athens was a 4 day city break, to celebrate my I-forgot-the-number birthday. :P It was not my first time in Athens: that happened when I was in high school, on a school trip, and the second time was 4 years ago, but it lasted less than 24 hours, before I embraked on the bus to Patra. Therefore, this was the time when I was grown-up enough to know what to explore, and how to explore a city.

    First and foremost, keep in mind that Athens is indeed full of history, which goes back 5000 years. And, when we think about ancient history, Athens and Rome are the ultimate places to be. This time though, we are talking about the 1st of the two cities. Sometimes we joke that we go to Athens to see rocks, but we know that it's simply amazing how these antique sites have lasted for milleniums, and they represent precisely the main charm of the city. So, let me take you through the most famous 'rocks' of Athens! ;)

    

     

     1. Acropolis

     Its name in Greek means exactly 'the high city', and is surely the most famous landmark of the Greek capital. Situated on the top of a hill, the Acropolis dominates over the rest of the city, and consists of several archeological sites making up a small citadel. It was also declared UNESCO World Heritage in 1987. We were very lucky to visit it for free, as it was a special offer of the first Sunday in November. Otherwise, visiting the Acropolis costs 30 euro per person. So, saving a significant amount of money for seeing the symbol of Athens was one heck of a birthday present! ;) Also, the fact that we arrived there at the first hour of the morning surely helped, as we had time to see everything before the place became packed with tourists. 

                             

 As I said, the Acropolis comprises various parts, but seeing them will not take you more than 1-2 hours. Of all of the sites and temples, I will draw your attetion to the Parthenon, perhaps the most important landmark, although at the moment it's under reconstruction, so you won't see it in all its splendour. Afterwards, it is worth mentioning the Theatre of Dionysus, the Temple of Athena and the entry gate Propylaea. 

     2. The Ancient Agora

     Downhill from the Acropolis, you can find the Ancient Agora, what in ancient time used to be the main square of Athens, where the citizens used to gather for a wide variety of purposes. 

Also, this is an archelogical site which includes several components, of which the most important are the Odeon of Agrippa, the Temple of Hephaistos (which bears a striking resemblance to the Parthenon, so be careful not to confuse them), but also the Museum of Ancient Agora at the Stoa of Attalos, which is a picturesque setting in itself, and exibits several artworks and ancient remains. The Ancient Agora is like a park in which you can take a quiet stroll, and is not as full of tourists as the Acropolis. 

            

      3. Temple of Zeus and Adrian's Arch

      The last-but-not-least archeological setting, situated withing walking distance from Syntagma Square and right next to the National Gardens, Adrian's Arch was build in the 2nd century A.D., and it was meant to separate the old and new cities of Athens. Just as you cross it, you enter the site of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, where the entrance only costs 3 euros per person. This visit will be quick, but nevertheless worthy, as it is an ancient spot in the heart of this hectic city.

          

     In Part 2, we will be back with Syntagma Square and something which you should not miss about it, as well as two key museums encompassing the history of Greece, but also the perfect place for shopping in Athens.